Alternator problem

linnix wrote:
> On Jun 19, 4:58=A0pm, jama...@my-deja.com wrote:
>>your car may not use a conventional pulley but a
>>clutch pulley, and I suspect this could be the root of your problem.
>>Web sites dedicated to Lexuses or Toyotas should have more about this.
>
>I am think about changing the pulley on the alternator, which is a
>standard part for many toyotas.

Is it a pulley, rather than a clutch pulley?  The clutch pulley is
adjustable, and perhaps it's not being adjusted right.

On Jun 19, 6:07=A0pm, jama...@my-deja.com wrote:
> linnix wrote:
> > On Jun 19, 4:58=A0pm, jama...@my-deja.com wrote:
> >>your car may not use a conventional pulley but a
> >>clutch pulley, and I suspect this could be the root of your problem.
> >>Web sites dedicated to Lexuses or Toyotas should have more about this.
>
> >I am think about changing the pulley on the alternator, which is a
> >standard part for many toyotas.
>
> Is it a pulley, rather than a clutch pulley? =A0The clutch pulley is
> adjustable, and perhaps it's not being adjusted right.

I don't think it's adjustable.  The pulley is directly attached to the
alternator rotor.

is the idiot light working?
Switched battery voltage goes through the ignition switch, through the 
alternator idiot lamp and into the regulator. If this circuit is open, you 
rely on residual magnetization in the alternator to bootstrap it to 
producing output. This generally happens at a higher RPM.  Current provided 
through the idiot lamp provides field magnetizing current to allow 
regulation at idle speeds.

Back in the 60's when engine run-on was a problem, we realized that adding a 
simple diode in series with idiot lamp (cathode toward alternator) stopped 
the run-on.

Simple marine alternators referred to as 1-wire types had the regulator 
battery sense and output terminals connected. The connection to the idiot 
lamp was not used. Those would not produce output until about 2000 engine 
RPMs since they rely on residual magnetizing energy stored in rotor.

Oppie 

linnix <me@linnix.info-for.us> writes:


>>
>> Don't run the alternator without the battery. =A0Alternator diodes
>> aren't rated 400V PIV for no reason.

>I only disconnect it briefly to verify that the alternator output is
>below the battery voltage.

And how many milliseconds does it take to toast an ECU with overvoltage spikes?

-- 
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

I should have included this link
http://www.alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm

Rowland provides parts to rebuilders and is a good source of tech info
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/ExternallyRegulatedToInternallyRegulatedAlternator.htm 

On Jun 19, 7:34=A0pm, David Lesher <wb8...@panix.com> wrote:
> linnix <m...@linnix.info-for.us> writes:
>
> >> Don't run the alternator without the battery. =3DA0Alternator diodes
> >> aren't rated 400V PIV for no reason.
> >I only disconnect it briefly to verify that the alternator output is
> >below the battery voltage.
>
> And how many milliseconds does it take to toast an ECU with overvoltage s=
pikes?
>

Battery acts as a current sink, and so does the head lights.   I am
having problem with undervoltage, not overvoltage.  There are probably
20A to 30A current sink even without the battery.

"linnix" <me@linnix.info-for.us> wrote in message 
news:a100c3e1-64aa-4623-a11f-674f30f6d722@17g2000prr.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 19, 7:34 pm, David Lesher <wb8...@panix.com> wrote:
> linnix <m...@linnix.info-for.us> writes:
>
> >> Don't run the alternator without the battery. =A0Alternator diodes
> >> aren't rated 400V PIV for no reason.
> >I only disconnect it briefly to verify that the alternator output is
> >below the battery voltage.
>
> And how many milliseconds does it take to toast an ECU with overvoltage 
> spikes?
>

Battery acts as a current sink, and so does the head lights.   I am
having problem with undervoltage, not overvoltage.  There are probably
20A to 30A current sink even without the battery.


You sound like you know a lot more about this problem with this car than any 
of us do. I recommend doing anything you like until you either fix it or 
screw it up to the point where it won't run anymore. You don't want our 
opinions or advice, you want to impress us with your knowledge of charging 
systems. Sorry, we're not impressed, your charging system still is not 
working. 

On Jun 19, 8:03=A0pm, "hifi-tek" <t.hoeh...@insightbb.com> wrote:
> "linnix" <m...@linnix.info-for.us> wrote in message
>
> news:a100c3e1-64aa-4623-a11f-674f30f6d722@17g2000prr.googlegroups.com...
> On Jun 19, 7:34 pm, David Lesher <wb8...@panix.com> wrote:
>
> > linnix <m...@linnix.info-for.us> writes:
>
> > >> Don't run the alternator without the battery. =3DA0Alternator diodes
> > >> aren't rated 400V PIV for no reason.
> > >I only disconnect it briefly to verify that the alternator output is
> > >below the battery voltage.
>
> > And how many milliseconds does it take to toast an ECU with overvoltage
> > spikes?
>
> Battery acts as a current sink, and so does the head lights. =A0 I am
> having problem with undervoltage, not overvoltage. =A0There are probably
> 20A to 30A current sink even without the battery.
>
> You sound like you know a lot more about this problem with this car than =
any
> of us do. I recommend doing anything you like until you either fix it or
> screw it up to the point where it won't run anymore. You don't want our
> opinions or advice, you want to impress us with your knowledge of chargin=
g
> systems. Sorry, we're not impressed, your charging system still is not
> working.

I follow reasonable suggestions, like grounding the alternator with
battery terminal, as the other poster said.  I just don't buy the idea
of hundreds of volt surging into 20A to 30A of load.  When i
disconnected the battery, the head light dimmed, not brightened.  So,
i am getting too little power, not too much.  Engineering is about
trials and errors, and eliminating the unknowns, within reasons.  I
don't claim to know everything about charging.

"linnix" <me@linnix.info-for.us> wrote in message 
news:508a8db3-d606-4845-bbe5-52c4fe13975e@d19g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
> I follow reasonable suggestions, like grounding the alternator with
> battery terminal, as the other poster said.  I just don't buy the idea
> of hundreds of volt surging into 20A to 30A of load.  When i
> disconnected the battery, the head light dimmed, not brightened.  So,
> i am getting too little power, not too much.  Engineering is about
> trials and errors, and eliminating the unknowns, within reasons.  I
> don't claim to know everything about charging.

Have you read my post about the idiot lamp yet?
I've done a lot of work with alternators... 

On Jun 19, 8:21=A0pm, "Oppie" <Op...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
> "linnix" <m...@linnix.info-for.us> wrote in message
>
> news:508a8db3-d606-4845-bbe5-52c4fe13975e@d19g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
>
> > I follow reasonable suggestions, like grounding the alternator with
> > battery terminal, as the other poster said. =A0I just don't buy the ide=
a
> > of hundreds of volt surging into 20A to 30A of load. =A0When i
> > disconnected the battery, the head light dimmed, not brightened. =A0So,
> > i am getting too little power, not too much. =A0Engineering is about
> > trials and errors, and eliminating the unknowns, within reasons. =A0I
> > don't claim to know everything about charging.
>
> Have you read my post about the idiot lamp yet?
> I've done a lot of work with alternators...

Yes, i read your post, but I have to research more about this idiot
lamp first.  All dash board indicators are normal.  The car is running
normal, except for not charging at idle.  Thanks anyway.