On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 11:14:48 AM UTC-5, Ricketty C wrote:> If you have a remotely controlled switch actuated by a smart device, why can't you just replace the smart switch with a smart dimmer and have the smart controller manage the dimming? Are you saying you can't find those at all? Is the switch an integral part of the fan?The fan controller handles three speeds for the fan and on / off for the light. If I remove the fan controller, then I no longer can control the fan.
Slow fade-in circuit
Started by ●September 23, 2020
Reply by ●September 25, 20202020-09-25
Reply by ●September 25, 20202020-09-25
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 12:36:55 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:> On Tue, 22 Sep 2020 21:08:07 -0700 (PDT), "rhor...@gmail.com"> Given that this is an electronic design forum, we should design > something. I could start. Maybe some others can suggest circuits. > > How much power are the LED lights, in total?Four lights x 5 watts = 20 watts per fan> > A triac dimmer typically won't see a low enough impedance when dimming > some LEDs. I have one string of LED spots, with one incandescent left > to make the dimmer work.That wouldn't be horrible.
Reply by ●September 25, 20202020-09-25
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 11:30:51 AM UTC-5, Ricketty C wrote:> > If you have a remotely controlled switch actuated by a smart device, why can't you just replace the smart switch with a smart dimmer and have the smart controller manage the dimming? Are you saying you can't find those at all? Is the switch an integral part of the fan? > Here is one rated for 400 watts LED/CFL/Incandescent, 2x2x4 inches. "Works With Alexa, Google, INSTEON" > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Insteon-In-LineLinc-400-Watt-Remote-Control-In-Line-Dimmer-Switch-Dual-Band-White-2475DA1/204380654 > > Here is a larger one at 300 watts, 4x4x2 inches. "Works With Alexa, Google, INSTEON" > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Insteon-300-Watt-DIN-Rail-Dimmer-White-2452-222/204380623 > > If these are too large for your fan housing you can simply install another box next to the one for the fan.Those ae very expensive, but there are less expensive ones. Of course, it means splitting the mains feed and bypassing the existing light controller. That is doable, of course, but it is a bit of a waste and not a very good fit. I don't want to sit there and give a dozen instructions to get a slow fade-up. Those are Insteon controllers, by the way, not IFFT. I would have to buy an Insteon hub, and then it would require a different controller.
Reply by ●September 25, 20202020-09-25
On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 14:37:11 -0700 (PDT), "rhor...@gmail.com" <rhorerles@gmail.com> wrote:>On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 12:36:55 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote: >> On Tue, 22 Sep 2020 21:08:07 -0700 (PDT), "rhor...@gmail.com" > >> Given that this is an electronic design forum, we should design >> something. I could start. Maybe some others can suggest circuits. >> >> How much power are the LED lights, in total? > > Four lights x 5 watts = 20 watts per fanDo you feel like building a circuit? It could be done with 5 discrete parts, or possibly 3.>> >> A triac dimmer typically won't see a low enough impedance when dimming >> some LEDs. I have one string of LED spots, with one incandescent left >> to make the dimmer work. > > That wouldn't be horrible.
Reply by ●September 25, 20202020-09-25
On Fri, 25 Sep 2020 17:10:13 -0400, Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:>On 2020-09-25 16:47, John S wrote: >> On 9/25/2020 1:44 PM, Ricketty C wrote: >>> On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 1:36:55 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote: >>>> On Tue, 22 Sep 2020 21:08:07 -0700 (PDT), "rhor...@gmail.com" >>>> <rhorerles@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> I need a simple circuit design for a slow fade-in AC dimmer.� In a >>>>> dark theater, suddenly turning on the lights is a somewhat >>>>> unpleasant experience.� I want a simple circuit compatible with 110 >>>>> volt dimmable LED lights that will slowly ramp the light output over >>>>> a period of about 5 seconds or so.� I have found a number of simple >>>>> designs that would work for 12VDC LEDs, but none for 110VAC dimmable >>>>> LED lights. >>>> >>>> Given that this is an electronic design forum, we should design >>>> something. I could start. Maybe some others can suggest circuits. >>>> >>>> How much power are the LED lights, in total? >>>> >>>> A triac dimmer typically won't see a low enough impedance when dimming >>>> some LEDs. I have one string of LED spots, with one incandescent left >>>> to make the dimmer work. >>> >>> I would design using modules.� I already posted a link to two.� Done >>> and dusted! >>> >>> Since when is Larkin actually concerned about discussing electronic >>> design other than when he intends to use it as a put down for >>> someone?� That is a truly nasty individual. >>> >>> It's no wonder that Larkin is not respected by many here.� On a >>> personal level he is the sort of person the world would be better off >>> without.� But he has a highly specialized skill in a corner of >>> electronics design that still has some minimal demand, so the world >>> pays him to do that. >>> >> >> How many is many? Have you taken a census? > >"Not many" translates as "None of the cool kids _I_ hang out with", as >used in middle school playgrounds the world over. ;) > >Cheers > >Phil HobbsIt's really easy to make some people angry and preachy. Just ask them to design something.
Reply by ●September 25, 20202020-09-25
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 4:58:36 PM UTC-4, John S wrote:> On 9/25/2020 1:44 PM, Ricketty C wrote: > > On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 1:36:55 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote: > >> On Tue, 22 Sep 2020 21:08:07 -0700 (PDT), "rhor...@gmail.com" > >> <rhorerles@gmail.com> wrote: > >> > >>> I need a simple circuit design for a slow fade-in AC dimmer. In a dark theater, suddenly turning on the lights is a somewhat unpleasant experience. I want a simple circuit compatible with 110 volt dimmable LED lights that will slowly ramp the light output over a period of about 5 seconds or so. I have found a number of simple designs that would work for 12VDC LEDs, but none for 110VAC dimmable LED lights. > >> > >> Given that this is an electronic design forum, we should design > >> something. I could start. Maybe some others can suggest circuits. > >> > >> How much power are the LED lights, in total? > >> > >> A triac dimmer typically won't see a low enough impedance when dimming > >> some LEDs. I have one string of LED spots, with one incandescent left > >> to make the dimmer work. > > > > I would design using modules. I already posted a link to two. Done and dusted! > > > > Since when is Larkin actually concerned about discussing electronic design other than when he intends to use it as a put down for someone? That is a truly nasty individual. > > > > It's no wonder that Larkin is not respected by many here. On a personal level he is the sort of person the world would be better off without. But he has a highly specialized skill in a corner of electronics design that still has some minimal demand, so the world pays him to do that. > > > > You are a good contributor to the group, Ricketty, except when you're > not. There are not that many people here that dislike Larkin. He, too, > is a good contributor. He does not post the kind of diatribe as you have > done. You do much better at describing projects than you do at this kind > of attack. Please take my post as constructive criticism.Fine, but it's not accurate. There have been any number of posts by Larkin responding to nothing in particular by others where he talks about his disfavored few being "nasty" and other choice terms. That was why I used the term. It is rather un-evenhanded to call my two, short paragraphs as a "diatribe" but ignore the many ugly posts by Larkin. That's on you. -- Rick C. -+- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging -+- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
Reply by ●September 25, 20202020-09-25
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 5:12:05 PM UTC-4, rhor...@gmail.com wrote:> On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 11:14:48 AM UTC-5, Ricketty C wrote: > > > If you have a remotely controlled switch actuated by a smart device, why can't you just replace the smart switch with a smart dimmer and have the smart controller manage the dimming? Are you saying you can't find those at all? Is the switch an integral part of the fan? > > The fan controller handles three speeds for the fan and on / off for the light. If I remove the fan controller, then I no longer can control the fan.So don't remove it, just replace the light part. Or find a remote that is intended for the fan and also dims the light. Silly of the original maker not to. I installed a fan for a restaurant once. It was fairly high end, Hunter I think. It had a mode where it ran the speed up and down, dimmed the lights up and down and played music! It is hard to imagine they aren't out there. Everything else is. -- Rick C. -++ Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging -++ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
Reply by ●September 25, 20202020-09-25
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 5:51:38 PM UTC-4, rhor...@gmail.com wrote:> On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 11:30:51 AM UTC-5, Ricketty C wrote: > > > If you have a remotely controlled switch actuated by a smart device, why can't you just replace the smart switch with a smart dimmer and have the smart controller manage the dimming? Are you saying you can't find those at all? Is the switch an integral part of the fan? > > Here is one rated for 400 watts LED/CFL/Incandescent, 2x2x4 inches. "Works With Alexa, Google, INSTEON" > > > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Insteon-In-LineLinc-400-Watt-Remote-Control-In-Line-Dimmer-Switch-Dual-Band-White-2475DA1/204380654 > > > > Here is a larger one at 300 watts, 4x4x2 inches. "Works With Alexa, Google, INSTEON" > > > > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Insteon-300-Watt-DIN-Rail-Dimmer-White-2452-222/204380623 > > > > If these are too large for your fan housing you can simply install another box next to the one for the fan. > > Those ae very expensive, but there are less expensive ones. Of course, it means splitting the mains feed and bypassing the existing light controller. That is doable, of course, but it is a bit of a waste and not a very good fit. I don't want to sit there and give a dozen instructions to get a slow fade-up. Those are Insteon controllers, by the way, not IFFT. I would have to buy an Insteon hub, and then it would require a different controller.I don't follow your thinking. The waste has already happened, you bought a product that no longer suits your needs. Adding a follow on dimmer is no less a waste than replacing the light control with one that is effective in your new task. I don't know what you are talking about "dozen instructions". If you don't understand how this stuff works then maybe it is a bit much. A dimmer should be able to bring up the lights slowly without multiple inputs from a person. I don't know what IFFT is. Some acronym you like or a brand name??? They may have the Insteon name on them, but the point is they can do the job. I spent 2 minutes looking. If you spend a few more minutes I'm sure you can find something that won't invalidate your homeowner's fire insurance like a home brew project would. -- Rick C. +-- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging +-- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
Reply by ●September 25, 20202020-09-25
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 4:56:32 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:> Do you feel like building a circuit? It could be done with 5 discrete > parts, or possibly 3.Yes, of course! I am having a little trouble imagining only 5 components, let alone 3, but I am game to look at anything. I did find a nice, small buck converter module that is only 7mm x 4.5mm with up to 450V input and 300ma output. It only requires 13 external components, all of which can be 1206 SMDs except for a small inductor. This makes a trailing edge MOSFET based dimmer using a 555 practical. It's $2.24, but I can handle that.
Reply by ●September 25, 20202020-09-25
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 2:39:51 AM UTC-4, rhor...@gmail.com wrote:> On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 8:44:08 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote: > > Maybe hack one of the commercial triac AC dimmers? I get a ton > > of hits for DIY triac dimmer. (lots with Arduino input.) > > I didn't look at the details. > > > > George H. > All of them I have seen with Arduino / Raspberry Pi inputs are PWM. That means something like a 555, which in turn means a low voltage DC supply. 'Possible, but a bit tricky given the space constraints.Hmm, yeah my mind first assumes some DC supply. Maybe ~120V DC supply and resistor divider... and then something like a 555... integrator then comparator/ reset. George H.
