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mitutoyo 6" caliper with bad curcuit board

Started by Unknown December 14, 2016
On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 3:28:09 AM UTC-8, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 08:40:41 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote: > > > > OTOH, I paid $12 for a no-brand 0.01mm precisionstainless steel > > electronic caliper on aliexpress...
> All very well until they drift out of calibration and you have to throw > away a work-in-progress-piece ...
The inexpensive ones (HF at under $10) have some annoying characteristics, but I've never seen 'drift'. If you're using them regularly, just keep putting in fresh batteries. If you let 'em sit on the shelf for a month, yank the battery first. And if you don't have a mechanical dial caliper, get one for the out-of-batteries times.
Den onsdag den 14. december 2016 kl. 20.23.15 UTC+1 skrev whit3rd:
> On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 3:28:09 AM UTC-8, Cursitor Doom wrote: > > On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 08:40:41 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote: > > > > > > OTOH, I paid $12 for a no-brand 0.01mm precisionstainless steel > > > electronic caliper on aliexpress... > > > All very well until they drift out of calibration and you have to throw > > away a work-in-progress-piece ... > > The inexpensive ones (HF at under $10) have some annoying characteristics, > but I've never seen 'drift'. If you're using them regularly, just keep putting in > fresh batteries. If you let 'em sit on the shelf for a month, yank the battery first. > And if you don't have a mechanical dial caliper, get one for the out-of-batteries times.
https://youtu.be/WvszAb0Y0Ec?t=6m56s https://youtu.be/E8oopG2GpF0
On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 6:28:09 AM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 08:40:41 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote: > > > > OTOH, I paid $12 for a no-brand 0.01mm precisionstainless steel > > electronic caliper on aliexpress, and $5 for a carbon fibre plastic > > 0.1mm precision electronic caliper. > > All very well until they drift out of calibration and you have to throw > away a work-in-progress-piece with a couple of thousand dollars worth of > machining having gone into it. I'll stick with my flawless and totally > reliable Mitutoyo dial calipers, thanks very much!
Grin, my Mitutoyo dial calp's have slipped a few gears in their lifetime. (bought used, dial now zero's at bit past 180 degrees.) I like the lack of battery. George H.
Thank you for your interest in this problem.  The battery however is full voltage and new. I could remove some more items from the board as they look corroded underneath?Other than that not sure what else to try. I did also coat the carbon tipped buttons with curcuit writer ink to insure better contact.
George, your 180 degree problem happened to me, so I removed the cover lense and carfully pulled the indicator needle off with some needle nose pliers and carefullypushed it back on in the correct position. Its sounds barbaric but it fixed it. Some dirt got between the rack and pinion gears and it was a fast fix.
On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 11:23:11 -0800 (PST), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>
wrote:

>On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 at 3:28:09 AM UTC-8, Cursitor Doom wrote: >> On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 08:40:41 +0000, Jasen Betts wrote: >> > >> > OTOH, I paid $12 for a no-brand 0.01mm precisionstainless steel >> > electronic caliper on aliexpress... > >> All very well until they drift out of calibration and you have to throw >> away a work-in-progress-piece ... > >The inexpensive ones (HF at under $10) have some annoying characteristics, >but I've never seen 'drift'. If you're using them regularly, just keep putting in >fresh batteries. If you let 'em sit on the shelf for a month, yank the battery first. >And if you don't have a mechanical dial caliper, get one for the out-of-batteries times.
+1 I just gave up on the electronic calipers and went to dial calipers, both at home and at work (metric and SAE). Electronic calipers just aren't worth the hassle.
On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 16:52:42 -0800 (PST), grbrown6@gmail.com wrote:

>George, your 180 degree problem happened to me, so I removed the cover lense and carfully pulled the indicator needle off with some needle nose pliers and carefullypushed it back on in the correct position. Its sounds barbaric but it fixed it. Some dirt got between the rack and pinion gears and it was a fast fix.
When you take it apart, and loose a few screws and gears, here's a source for replacement Mitutoyo parts: <http://www.longislandindicator.com/p72.html#Mitutoyo> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 16:45:09 -0800 (PST), grbrown6@gmail.com wrote:

>Thank you for your interest in this problem. The battery however is full voltage and new. I could remove some more items from the board as they look corroded underneath?Other than that not sure what else to try. I did also coat the carbon tipped buttons with curcuit writer ink to insure better contact.
If they look corroded, they probably are corroded. That implies that some copper has disappeared, breaking a connection. You may need to reinforce the connection with a piece of fine wire in order to repair it. You didn't bother to specify the exact Mitutoyo model number, so I can't offer any replacement PCB's. However, they probably have the same problem as yours. Mitutoyo uses "chip on board" type assembly. Here's one example: <http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f38/51897d1336582631-mitutoyo-500-451-solar-needs-battery-dsc_0059.jpg> The two black epoxy blobs have IC's underneath, with wire bonds between the chip and the PCB. Although the chips is protected somewhat by a jelly like smear of junction coating, you can still break a wire bond by just touching the epoxy. An alternative failure mode is having water or corrosive fluids creep under the PCB to epoxy interface by capillary action, and eat the wire bonds. My guess(tm) is that one of these may have been what happened to yours. Display repair: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxGtfGIL6EA> 5:32 Mitutoyo vs cheap junk Chinese calipers comparison: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpGUOTVBZ3c> 16:03 Mitutoyo counterfeit: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnDype-j3hk> 10:15 See 3:10 for battery current measurments. The counterfeit draws 4 times the current as the real Mitutoyo. See 8:17 for video of the PCB. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 19:07:16 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

>Display repair: ><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxGtfGIL6EA> 5:32 > >Mitutoyo vs cheap junk Chinese calipers comparison: ><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpGUOTVBZ3c> 16:03 > >Mitutoyo counterfeit: ><https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnDype-j3hk> 10:15 >See 3:10 for battery current measurments. The counterfeit draws 4 >times the current as the real Mitutoyo. See 8:17 for video of the >PCB.
More: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvszAb0Y0Ec> See 10:26 for some really bad machining on a cheap digital caliper. See links under "Show More" for some more problems (temperature stability and battery consumption). -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
On Wed, 14 Dec 2016 15:58:22 -0800, George Herold wrote:

> Grin, my Mitutoyo dial calp's have slipped a few gears in their > lifetime. > (bought used, dial now zero's at bit past 180 degrees.) > I like the lack of battery.
Inevitably they get dirt in there. The teeth on the main rack are very fine, so it doesn't take much dirt to knock them out of mesh with the pinion in operation so you have to clean and re-zero them from time to time depending on how badly you abuse them. Ain't no biggie, though.