On a sunny day (Thu, 3 Dec 2015 00:24:02 -0800 (PST)) it happened Bill Beaty <billb@eskimo.com> wrote in <4437fa41-e670-490a-a37e-df2abf0e487d@googlegroups.com>: PS>There is also a lot of high power laser diode stuff. >There is a video of a guy on the net that I unfortunately cannot find anymoreHere: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8Q7aqI9yOs something like that it was.
Steel melter for forty bucks? Needs a KW dc supply. Also $1 100nS 30KV! Also ALSO!
Started by ●November 21, 2015
Reply by ●December 3, 20152015-12-03
Reply by ●December 7, 20152015-12-07
Bill Beaty <billb@eskimo.com> wrote:> On Monday, November 23, 2015 at 12:04:29 AM UTC-8, Jan Panteltje wrote: >> I do not think there is enough conduction in those marbles (or any other Uranium glass) to get it to melt >> in that thing. >> But it would be different with Uranium ore. > > Glass will melt in a microwave oven. So, probably an induction heater works > too. However, it won't start from cold. > > I heard about accidental glass-melting in home microwave ovens. So I tracked > this down and duplicated the effect. It requires a "trigger," either a > small particle of carbon etc. which heats up a tiny spot. Or, just use > a torch to get it started. See: > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cskB5c0mJ58 > > Glass is an electrolytic conductor, and must be pre-heated to just below > visible red glow. This frees up the ions, so any current-loops induced by > high voltage will begin to couple some watts into the glass. At a certain > temperature, the induction heater might offset the natural radiant cooling, > so the temperature then rises exponentially until the conductive glass > pool is absorbing a large portion of the magnetron output. > > Also, red "lava rock" from under bushes, it will melt into black lava if > torch-heated and then microwaved. Put it atop a tiny inverted ceramic > flower pot. > > In the microwave oven, martini glasses with gold-plated rims will self-start. > Apparently the metal creates a large enough hot-spot that small patches of > ionic conductivity take off and spread.Tracking is pretty easy to start on glass with any sort of arc across the surface.
Reply by ●December 7, 20152015-12-07
On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 2:18:26 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote:> Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote: > > Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote: > >> sroberts6328@gmail.com wrote: > >>> Might want to check, the original designer of that was retailing them west of 80$. > >>> I was holding off at 80, but was watching it. Never know these days when a product is a clone of a clone. > >> > >> Just ordered one for $38.something. While the board does look real simple, > >> I think the exploding your own parts to get it right would exceed the > >> price of the ebay one. > > > > Wow, it arrived already- 8 days after order. China to Chicago is faster > > than free shipping from Amazon. Obviously the thing went airmail. > > Well, it works. > > The heatsinks were busted off the board as the solder down stakes broke > free, at the PCB, can be reflowed with no problem or damage past that. > > The think resonates at 100kHz with 12 volts in and no load. I was able to > heat up drill bits, coins and other junk with no problems. Frequency > drifted upto 160kHz with some materials. > > With no load, the copper tube does heat up quite a bit, the caps stay cool > and part number checks show they are in fact PP induction cooktop caps. > > Will play some more with a scope and larger power supply and maybe water > or air cooling for the coil. With so few turns winding up some litz wire > would be pretty easy too. > > The board is dead simple. If I saw it at hamfest, I'd have haggled to $20 > or $25 tops, but whatever. It's fun so far.Hey Cydrome, what did you use as a power supply, (and how much current?) My son has been trying to heat treat metal (knifes) with a blow torch and I think he needs hotter. George H.
Reply by ●December 7, 20152015-12-07
On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 7:03:56 PM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:> On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 2:18:26 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote: > > Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote: > > > Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote: > > >> sroberts6328@gmail.com wrote: > > >>> Might want to check, the original designer of that was retailing them west of 80$. > > >>> I was holding off at 80, but was watching it. Never know these days when a product is a clone of a clone. > > >> > > >> Just ordered one for $38.something. While the board does look real simple, > > >> I think the exploding your own parts to get it right would exceed the > > >> price of the ebay one. > > > > > > Wow, it arrived already- 8 days after order. China to Chicago is faster > > > than free shipping from Amazon. Obviously the thing went airmail. > > > > Well, it works. > > > > The heatsinks were busted off the board as the solder down stakes broke > > free, at the PCB, can be reflowed with no problem or damage past that. > > > > The think resonates at 100kHz with 12 volts in and no load. I was able to > > heat up drill bits, coins and other junk with no problems. Frequency > > drifted upto 160kHz with some materials. > > > > With no load, the copper tube does heat up quite a bit, the caps stay cool > > and part number checks show they are in fact PP induction cooktop caps. > > > > Will play some more with a scope and larger power supply and maybe water > > or air cooling for the coil. With so few turns winding up some litz wire > > would be pretty easy too. > > > > The board is dead simple. If I saw it at hamfest, I'd have haggled to $20 > > or $25 tops, but whatever. It's fun so far. > > Hey Cydrome, what did you use as a power supply, (and how much current?) > My son has been trying to heat treat metal (knifes) with a blow torch and I > think he needs hotter. > > George H.I've got a Dayton arc welder in the barn...? ("DC" and AC) Or is that too big? GH
Reply by ●December 7, 20152015-12-07
Den tirsdag den 8. december 2015 kl. 01.03.56 UTC+1 skrev George Herold:> On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 2:18:26 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote: > > Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote: > > > Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote: > > >> sroberts6328@gmail.com wrote: > > >>> Might want to check, the original designer of that was retailing them west of 80$. > > >>> I was holding off at 80, but was watching it. Never know these days when a product is a clone of a clone. > > >> > > >> Just ordered one for $38.something. While the board does look real simple, > > >> I think the exploding your own parts to get it right would exceed the > > >> price of the ebay one. > > > > > > Wow, it arrived already- 8 days after order. China to Chicago is faster > > > than free shipping from Amazon. Obviously the thing went airmail. > > > > Well, it works. > > > > The heatsinks were busted off the board as the solder down stakes broke > > free, at the PCB, can be reflowed with no problem or damage past that. > > > > The think resonates at 100kHz with 12 volts in and no load. I was able to > > heat up drill bits, coins and other junk with no problems. Frequency > > drifted upto 160kHz with some materials. > > > > With no load, the copper tube does heat up quite a bit, the caps stay cool > > and part number checks show they are in fact PP induction cooktop caps. > > > > Will play some more with a scope and larger power supply and maybe water > > or air cooling for the coil. With so few turns winding up some litz wire > > would be pretty easy too. > > > > The board is dead simple. If I saw it at hamfest, I'd have haggled to $20 > > or $25 tops, but whatever. It's fun so far. > > Hey Cydrome, what did you use as a power supply, (and how much current?) > My son has been trying to heat treat metal (knifes) with a blow torch and I > think he needs hotter.get some fire bricks and build something like this: http://www.navaching.com/forge/forge.gifs/forge1.jpg -Lasse
Reply by ●December 7, 20152015-12-07
On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 7:17:04 PM UTC-5, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:> Den tirsdag den 8. december 2015 kl. 01.03.56 UTC+1 skrev George Herold: > > On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 2:18:26 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote: > > > Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote: > > > > Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote: > > > >> sroberts6328@gmail.com wrote: > > > >>> Might want to check, the original designer of that was retailing them west of 80$. > > > >>> I was holding off at 80, but was watching it. Never know these days when a product is a clone of a clone. > > > >> > > > >> Just ordered one for $38.something. While the board does look real simple, > > > >> I think the exploding your own parts to get it right would exceed the > > > >> price of the ebay one. > > > > > > > > Wow, it arrived already- 8 days after order. China to Chicago is faster > > > > than free shipping from Amazon. Obviously the thing went airmail. > > > > > > Well, it works. > > > > > > The heatsinks were busted off the board as the solder down stakes broke > > > free, at the PCB, can be reflowed with no problem or damage past that. > > > > > > The think resonates at 100kHz with 12 volts in and no load. I was able to > > > heat up drill bits, coins and other junk with no problems. Frequency > > > drifted upto 160kHz with some materials. > > > > > > With no load, the copper tube does heat up quite a bit, the caps stay cool > > > and part number checks show they are in fact PP induction cooktop caps. > > > > > > Will play some more with a scope and larger power supply and maybe water > > > or air cooling for the coil. With so few turns winding up some litz wire > > > would be pretty easy too. > > > > > > The board is dead simple. If I saw it at hamfest, I'd have haggled to $20 > > > or $25 tops, but whatever. It's fun so far. > > > > Hey Cydrome, what did you use as a power supply, (and how much current?) > > My son has been trying to heat treat metal (knifes) with a blow torch and I > > think he needs hotter. > > get some fire bricks and build something like this: > http://www.navaching.com/forge/forge.gifs/forge1.jpg > > -LasseYeah, he bought what looks like the small one of these, http://whitloxhomestead.com/ for ~$100, (I think)... We've got a lot of wood. George H.
Reply by ●December 8, 20152015-12-08
On a sunny day (Thu, 3 Dec 2015 00:24:02 -0800 (PST)) it happened Bill Beaty <billb@eskimo.com> wrote in <4437fa41-e670-490a-a37e-df2abf0e487d@googlegroups.com>: PS, inductive heater board arrived. http://panteltje.com/pub/inductive_heater_board_arrived_IMG_5187.JPG Do not have proper size (6 mm) tubing around. So far testing the MOSFETs with a multimeter seems OK. Maybe later I will run it without cooling, bit busy now. The screws were too long for the holes in the copper pilars, and the threads damaged, but it _just_ fits. I also spaced the turns in the coil so these do not short each other. Maybe weekend.
Reply by ●December 9, 20152015-12-09
On a sunny day (Tue, 08 Dec 2015 16:15:43 GMT) it happened Jan Panteltje <pNaOnStPeAlMtje@yahoo.com> wrote in <n46vnk$57h$1@news.datemas.de>:>On a sunny day (Thu, 3 Dec 2015 00:24:02 -0800 (PST)) it happened Bill Beaty ><billb@eskimo.com> wrote in ><4437fa41-e670-490a-a37e-df2abf0e487d@googlegroups.com>: > > >PS, inductive heater board arrived. > http://panteltje.com/pub/inductive_heater_board_arrived_IMG_5187.JPG >Do not have proper size (6 mm) tubing around. >So far testing the MOSFETs with a multimeter seems OK. >Maybe later I will run it without cooling, bit busy now. >The screws were too long for the holes in the copper pilars, and the threads damaged, >but it _just_ fits. >I also spaced the turns in the coil so these do not short each other. >Maybe weekend.OK, follow up, could not resist testing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX9idUznjR0&feature=youtu.be This is the item: http://www.ebay.com/itm/361287263867 This is the test setup: http://panteltje.com/pub/inductive_heaTer_initial_test_setup_IMG_5190.JPG Using 3 of these set to 8 V in series: http://panteltje.com/pub/meanwell_7.5V_20A_IMG_5189.JPG Works very nice, that is a backplate for a D connector for a PC that I use as mall for D connectors... No unexpected fireworks, no strange things, but I was very careful... I tried solder wick with solder, that does not get hot. I tried solder by itself and that does not melt, need a metal or carbon container for a solder pot I'd think, But great value for money, really cool gadget, 24 V battery on boat and you have 24 V cooking too. (different coil) to bake eggs or fish, without converter, better efficiency. Fun:-)
Reply by ●December 9, 20152015-12-09
On Wednesday, December 9, 2015 at 9:51:04 AM UTC-5, Jan Panteltje wrote:> On a sunny day (Tue, 08 Dec 2015 16:15:43 GMT) it happened Jan Panteltje > <pNaOnStPeAlMtje@yahoo.com> wrote in <n46vnk$57h$1@news.datemas.de>: > > >On a sunny day (Thu, 3 Dec 2015 00:24:02 -0800 (PST)) it happened Bill Beaty > ><billb@eskimo.com> wrote in > ><4437fa41-e670-490a-a37e-df2abf0e487d@googlegroups.com>: > > > > > >PS, inductive heater board arrived. > > http://panteltje.com/pub/inductive_heater_board_arrived_IMG_5187.JPG > >Do not have proper size (6 mm) tubing around. > >So far testing the MOSFETs with a multimeter seems OK. > >Maybe later I will run it without cooling, bit busy now. > >The screws were too long for the holes in the copper pilars, and the threads damaged, > >but it _just_ fits. > >I also spaced the turns in the coil so these do not short each other. > >Maybe weekend. > > OK, follow up, could not resist testing: > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX9idUznjR0&feature=youtu.be > > This is the item: > http://www.ebay.com/itm/361287263867 > > This is the test setup: > http://panteltje.com/pub/inductive_heaTer_initial_test_setup_IMG_5190.JPG > > Using 3 of these set to 8 V in series: > http://panteltje.com/pub/meanwell_7.5V_20A_IMG_5189.JPG > > Works very nice, that is a backplate for a D connector for a PC that I use as mall for D connectors... > > No unexpected fireworks, no strange things, but I was very careful... > I tried solder wick with solder, that does not get hot. > I tried solder by itself and that does not melt, > need a metal or carbon container for a solder pot I'd think, > But great value for money, really cool gadget, 24 V battery on boat and you have 24 V cooking too. > (different coil) to bake eggs or fish, without converter, better efficiency. > > Fun:-)Thanks, I order one of these too, (but I still don't know how I'll power it.) Does it take the whole 20A at 24v? (I've got a 20V 10A supply.) I like the idea of two car batteries in series... "Sorry honey no car today, we're induction heating" Maybe with a current meter in series? George H.
Reply by ●December 9, 20152015-12-09
On a sunny day (Wed, 9 Dec 2015 10:01:19 -0800 (PST)) it happened George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote in <6c2345e7-04dd-415e-887d-7cc64bcc9ecf@googlegroups.com>:>> >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/361287263867 >> >> This is the test setup: >> http://panteltje.com/pub/inductive_heaTer_initial_test_setup_IMG_5190.JPG >> >> Using 3 of these set to 8 V in series: >> http://panteltje.com/pub/meanwell_7.5V_20A_IMG_5189.JPG >> >> Works very nice, that is a backplate for a D connector for a PC that I use as mall for D connectors... >> >> No unexpected fireworks, no strange things, but I was very careful... >> I tried solder wick with solder, that does not get hot. >> I tried solder by itself and that does not melt, >> need a metal or carbon container for a solder pot I'd think, >> But great value for money, really cool gadget, 24 V battery on boat and you have 24 V cooking too. >> (different coil) to bake eggs or fish, without converter, better efficiency. >> >> Fun:-) > >Thanks, I order one of these too, (but I still don't know how I'll power it.) >Does it take the whole 20A at 24v? (I've got a 20V 10A supply.)I think not, but of course it depends on the load. I left out the amp meter as I was worried the extra lead resistance would drop the voltage too low. Maybe you did see the youtube video of the guy who blew one up? So this is my take: 1) Check the copper pillars on the board, the screws are too long, or the thread in those too short, replace or cut so it actually is fixed to the board, avoid bad contacts. 2) Create spacing between the turns of the coil, mine were packed close and touching, else you get shorted turns. 3) Do not use a slow ramp power supply, I switch on supply and _then_ connect the circuit. 4) Do not start it with a load already in the coil, as then it may not start oscillating and blow a MOSFET.>I like the idea of two car batteries in series... >"Sorry honey no car today, we're induction heating"2 11.1 V RC lipos should work too.>Maybe with a current meter in series?Yes, contemplating how to build this into some box I ordered this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/181938789895 cannot make it for that money, see circuit diagram at bottom page.>George H. >
