On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 11:18:10 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote:> On 11/4/20 1:12 pm, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote: > > lørdag den 11. april 2020 kl. 03.49.28 UTC+2 skrev Ricky C: > >> On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 8:19:13 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote: > >>> On 9/4/20 9:39 am, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote: > >>>> I haven't been able to get toner transfer working since I changed > >>>> toner carts. But I've dabbled with two promising variations. > >>>> > >>>> 1) If you lacquer-coat the PCB *then* transfer the toner, the > >>>> lacquer fills in the toner's pores. > >>> > >>> James, > >>> What exactly is the stuff that Americans call lacquer? That's not a term > >>> that has a single meaning here. > >> > >> I'm pretty sure you could look it up easily, > > And I get hits on a dozen different kinds of things. Acrylic, shellac, > etc. So I asked James what he meant. > > >> but it's a sealant made from secretions of insects "lac". Think of it as varnish. > > It doesn't matter what I think of it as. If I wat to do what James did, > it matters what *he* thinks of it as.You didn't ask what James specifically was referring to. You asked, "What exactly is the stuff that Americans call lacquer?"> >> I'm surprised you haven't heard of it. It's very old and not at all a local term. > > I've done French polish, using traditional shellac. > That's not what James meant... is it?I can't say. I'm not James. I simply answered the question you asked.> >> I believe these days it is more a class of sealants than specifically the original one made from insects. > > Exactly my point. I cannot apply "a class of sealants" I need to apply a > specific sealant.Indeed. You should ask James what he has used, not "What exactly is the stuff that Americans call lacquer?" -- Rick C. -- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging -- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
Favourite parts with off-label uses?
Started by ●April 4, 2020
Reply by ●April 11, 20202020-04-11
Reply by ●April 11, 20202020-04-11
On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 11:18:14 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote:> On 11/4/20 11:49 am, Ricky C wrote: > > On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 8:19:13 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote: > >> On 9/4/20 9:39 am, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote: > >>> I haven't been able to get toner transfer working since I changed > >>> toner carts. But I've dabbled with two promising variations. > >>> > >>> 1) If you lacquer-coat the PCB *then* transfer the toner, the > >>> lacquer fills in the toner's pores. > >> > >> James, > >> > >> What exactly is the stuff that Americans call lacquer? That's not a term > >> that has a single meaning here. > > > > I'm pretty sure you could look it up easily, > > > And I get hits on a dozen different kinds of things. Acrylic, shellac, > etc. So I asked James what he meant. > > > > but it's a sealant made from secretions of insects "lac". Think of it as varnish. > > > It doesn't matter what I think of it as. If I wat to do what James did, > it matters what *he* thinks of it as. > > > > I'm surprised you haven't heard of it. It's very old and not at all a local term. > > > I've done French polish, using traditional shellac. > That's not what James meant... is it? > > > > I believe these days it is more a class of sealants than specifically the original one made from insects. > Exactly my point. I cannot apply "a class of sealants" I need to apply a > specific sealant. > > In other words, everything about your post illustrates the complete lack > of comprehension that characterises all your posts.Your post shows how you tend to blame your shortcomings on others. I simply answered the question you asked. You are welcome. -- Rick C. -+ Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging -+ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
Reply by ●April 11, 20202020-04-11
On 11/4/20 1:41 pm, Ricky C wrote:> On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 11:18:14 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote: >> On 11/4/20 11:49 am, Ricky C wrote: >>> On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 8:19:13 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote: >>>> On 9/4/20 9:39 am, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote: >>>>> I haven't been able to get toner transfer working since I changed >>>>> toner carts. But I've dabbled with two promising variations. >>>>> >>>>> 1) If you lacquer-coat the PCB *then* transfer the toner, the >>>>> lacquer fills in the toner's pores. >>>> >>>> James, >>>> >>>> What exactly is the stuff that Americans call lacquer? That's not a term >>>> that has a single meaning here. >>> >>> I'm pretty sure you could look it up easily, >> >> >> And I get hits on a dozen different kinds of things. Acrylic, shellac, >> etc. So I asked James what he meant. >> >> >>> but it's a sealant made from secretions of insects "lac". Think of it as varnish. >> >> >> It doesn't matter what I think of it as. If I wat to do what James did, >> it matters what *he* thinks of it as. >> >> >>> I'm surprised you haven't heard of it. It's very old and not at all a local term. >> >> >> I've done French polish, using traditional shellac. >> That's not what James meant... is it? >> >> >>> I believe these days it is more a class of sealants than specifically the original one made from insects. >> Exactly my point. I cannot apply "a class of sealants" I need to apply a >> specific sealant. >> >> In other words, everything about your post illustrates the complete lack >> of comprehension that characterises all your posts. > > Your post shows how you tend to blame your shortcomings on others. I simply answered the question you asked. > > You are welcome. >A hint here. A message that starts with sentence that looks like "James, ....?" is probably a question for James to answer, that only he can answer, and you should STFU unless it's apparent he's not going to. A question that says "I know what I think X is, but what do *you* mean by it" can only be answered by the person being addressed. The same word can mean different things to different people or in different contexts. These are things that we learn in kindergarten. But apparently you didn't graduate, because these are errors that you make *repeatedly*. I certainly find it difficult to image a high school that might have let you graduate. CH
Reply by ●April 11, 20202020-04-11
On Saturday, April 11, 2020 at 12:08:03 AM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote:> On 11/4/20 1:41 pm, Ricky C wrote: > > On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 11:18:14 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote: > >> On 11/4/20 11:49 am, Ricky C wrote: > >>> On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 8:19:13 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote: > >>>> On 9/4/20 9:39 am, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote: > >>>>> I haven't been able to get toner transfer working since I changed > >>>>> toner carts. But I've dabbled with two promising variations. > >>>>> > >>>>> 1) If you lacquer-coat the PCB *then* transfer the toner, the > >>>>> lacquer fills in the toner's pores. > >>>> > >>>> James, > >>>> > >>>> What exactly is the stuff that Americans call lacquer? That's not a term > >>>> that has a single meaning here. > >>> > >>> I'm pretty sure you could look it up easily, > >> > >> > >> And I get hits on a dozen different kinds of things. Acrylic, shellac, > >> etc. So I asked James what he meant. > >> > >> > >>> but it's a sealant made from secretions of insects "lac". Think of it as varnish. > >> > >> > >> It doesn't matter what I think of it as. If I wat to do what James did, > >> it matters what *he* thinks of it as. > >> > >> > >>> I'm surprised you haven't heard of it. It's very old and not at all a local term. > >> > >> > >> I've done French polish, using traditional shellac. > >> That's not what James meant... is it? > >> > >> > >>> I believe these days it is more a class of sealants than specifically the original one made from insects. > >> Exactly my point. I cannot apply "a class of sealants" I need to apply a > >> specific sealant. > >> > >> In other words, everything about your post illustrates the complete lack > >> of comprehension that characterises all your posts. > > > > Your post shows how you tend to blame your shortcomings on others. I simply answered the question you asked. > > > > You are welcome. > > > > A hint here. A message that starts with sentence that looks like > "James, ....?" is probably a question for James to answer, that only he > can answer, and you should STFU unless it's apparent he's not going to. > > A question that says "I know what I think X is, but what do *you* mean > by it" can only be answered by the person being addressed. > > The same word can mean different things to different people or in > different contexts. > > These are things that we learn in kindergarten. But apparently you > didn't graduate, because these are errors that you make *repeatedly*. I > certainly find it difficult to image a high school that might have let > you graduate.I'm not going to debate this silly issue ad nauseam. You asked a question. I answered the question you asked. If you don't like that why do you continue to keep debating it? This isn't a room of people where I butted into a conversation. All you needed to do was ignore the post you didn't like. Instead you try to turn it into a flame war. You seem to be rather sensitive for discussing topics in a public forum. Sorry I bothered you. -- Rick C. +- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging +- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
Reply by ●April 11, 20202020-04-11
On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 8:19:13 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote:> On 9/4/20 9:39 am, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote: > > I haven't been able to get toner transfer working since I changed > > toner carts. But I've dabbled with two promising variations. > > > > 1) If you lacquer-coat the PCB *then* transfer the toner, the > > lacquer fills in the toner's pores. > > James, > > What exactly is the stuff that Americans call lacquer? That's not a term > that has a single meaning here.I'm not completely sure. I believe it might be shellac, made from actual shells of actual lac bugs? The important property here is that it's alcohol-soluble. You might be able to vet local products by checking the clean-up solvents spec'd. This is what I tried & recommend -- https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-11-oz-Gloss-White-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-1904830/100163605 I recommend white, as contrasting brilliantly with the black toner. It's easily removed with 90% isopropyl alcohol, leaving printer toner completely unaffected. Toner scoffs at IPA.> > The toner image is printed on the paper you peel off the back of > > adhesive labels, or in my case, backing peeled off adhesive > > shelf-liner paper from the one-dollar store. > > I tried things like that but they were too slippery - bits of toner just > fell off before getting transferred. I'm using toner transfer paper > bought for the purpose.I had that experience early on, years ago. But the current label- backing type paper didn't have that problem. It's truly a godsend; no more rubbing, soaking and peeling, hoping the toner sticks. Transferring to a lacquer-coated board might be easier. The lacquer is infinitely grabbier than even roughed up copper.> > 3) A third method is to zap the toner with acetone/alcohol mix to > > make the toner tacky, then stick it to the board. That always > > smears the traces when I try it. "Cold Toner Transfer" > > e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVhSCEPINpM > > That could be messy.Some YouTubers make it look easy, but all I managed was a smeary mess. Cheers, James Arthur
Reply by ●April 11, 20202020-04-11
On Saturday, April 11, 2020 at 1:00:09 AM UTC-4, dagmarg...@yahoo.com wrote:> On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 8:19:13 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote: > > On 9/4/20 9:39 am, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote: > > > I haven't been able to get toner transfer working since I changed > > > toner carts. But I've dabbled with two promising variations. > > > > > > 1) If you lacquer-coat the PCB *then* transfer the toner, the > > > lacquer fills in the toner's pores. > > > > James, > > > > What exactly is the stuff that Americans call lacquer? That's not a term > > that has a single meaning here. > > I'm not completely sure. I believe it might be shellac, made from > actual shells of actual lac bugs? The important property here is > that it's alcohol-soluble. You might be able to vet local products > by checking the clean-up solvents spec'd. > > This is what I tried & recommend -- > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-11-oz-Gloss-White-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-1904830/100163605 > > I recommend white, as contrasting brilliantly with the black toner. > > It's easily removed with 90% isopropyl alcohol, leaving printer toner > completely unaffected. Toner scoffs at IPA. > > > > The toner image is printed on the paper you peel off the back of > > > adhesive labels, or in my case, backing peeled off adhesive > > > shelf-liner paper from the one-dollar store. > > > > I tried things like that but they were too slippery - bits of toner just > > fell off before getting transferred. I'm using toner transfer paper > > bought for the purpose. > > I had that experience early on, years ago. But the current label- > backing type paper didn't have that problem. It's truly a godsend; > no more rubbing, soaking and peeling, hoping the toner sticks. > > Transferring to a lacquer-coated board might be easier. The lacquer > is infinitely grabbier than even roughed up copper. > > > > 3) A third method is to zap the toner with acetone/alcohol mix to > > > make the toner tacky, then stick it to the board. That always > > > smears the traces when I try it. "Cold Toner Transfer" > > > e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVhSCEPINpM > > > > That could be messy. > > Some YouTubers make it look easy, but all I managed was a smeary mess. >LACQUER I found the technical data sheet, available on this page: https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/lacquer-spray/ The operative info from that .PDF: Resin Type: Acrylic Lacquer Pigment Type: Proprietary Solvents: Acetone, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, Toluene It doesn't list alcohol as a solvent, but 90% IPA works like a beast. The safety data sheet (linked on the above webpage) looks useful-- https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/1904830.pdf It lists a bit of naptha in its solvent-cocktail. FORMULA CHANGE Oh dear. I see the video's author has added a note-- <quote> UPDATE: apparently Rustoleum has changed the formulation of their lacquer and it no longer dissolves in alcohol!!! The last 2 cans i bought have been extremely difficult to work with, which might explain some of the difficulty some of you were having duplicating my results. I will update further with a substitute transfer base soon. Thanks! </quote> Rats. Maybe I got a lucky canful before the change? But you'll know what to look for--shellac / lacquer / solubility in alcohol. Alternate: Acrylic floor wax strips with ammonia--I might explore that some time, base-coating the board with acrylic instead of lacquer. (Stinky, though.) BACKING PAPER This gent illustrates my joyous experience printing onto backing paper, and the ease of transfer--the toner just comes right off, eliminating a wet step. He uses the paper he peels off Arlon vinyl. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haqP8xhsYas These are the labels whose baking paper is salvaged and used by the gentleman in the first of those YouTubes above-- Best PRINT half-sheet labels (1/2 page-sized labels) https://www.amazon.com/Best-Print-200-Half-Sheet/dp/B0069RY9BY The big lure of backing paper to me was eliminating the process variations of thermally transferring toner to copper from paper. The backing paper goes a long way toward accomplishing that. I still have trouble getting adhesion to bare copper. Overall, this ability to use two different resist coatings (toner and lacquer) that dissolve in different solvents feels full of promise & possibilities... Cheers, James Arthur
Reply by ●April 11, 20202020-04-11
On Saturday, April 11, 2020 at 1:00:09 AM UTC-4, dagmarg...@yahoo.com wrote:> On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 8:19:13 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote: > > On 9/4/20 9:39 am, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote: > > > I haven't been able to get toner transfer working since I changed > > > toner carts. But I've dabbled with two promising variations. > > > > > > 1) If you lacquer-coat the PCB *then* transfer the toner, the > > > lacquer fills in the toner's pores. > > > > James, > > > > What exactly is the stuff that Americans call lacquer? That's not a term > > that has a single meaning here. > > I'm not completely sure. I believe it might be shellac, made from > actual shells of actual lac bugs?I thought it was the shells too, but it's a secretion they leave on tree branches. So I guess they don't kill the bugs but harvest their secretions more like silkworms.> The important property here is > that it's alcohol-soluble. You might be able to vet local products > by checking the clean-up solvents spec'd. > > This is what I tried & recommend -- > https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-11-oz-Gloss-White-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-1904830/100163605 > > I recommend white, as contrasting brilliantly with the black toner. > > It's easily removed with 90% isopropyl alcohol, leaving printer toner > completely unaffected. Toner scoffs at IPA.It needs to be a very thin, even layer. Otherwise there is potential of the alcohol being absorbed through the layer of lacquer underneath thin traces allowing the toner to lift while removing the lacquer. I haven't tried this so I don't know if it is a real problem or just a potential one.> > > The toner image is printed on the paper you peel off the back of > > > adhesive labels, or in my case, backing peeled off adhesive > > > shelf-liner paper from the one-dollar store. > > > > I tried things like that but they were too slippery - bits of toner just > > fell off before getting transferred. I'm using toner transfer paper > > bought for the purpose. > > I had that experience early on, years ago. But the current label- > backing type paper didn't have that problem. It's truly a godsend; > no more rubbing, soaking and peeling, hoping the toner sticks. > > Transferring to a lacquer-coated board might be easier. The lacquer > is infinitely grabbier than even roughed up copper.I'm picturing circuit boards being coated while spinning. I'm not sure if this was photoresist or what. It's been a long time since I even thought of hand etching circuit boards.> > > 3) A third method is to zap the toner with acetone/alcohol mix to > > > make the toner tacky, then stick it to the board. That always > > > smears the traces when I try it. "Cold Toner Transfer" > > > e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVhSCEPINpM > > > > That could be messy. > > Some YouTubers make it look easy, but all I managed was a smeary mess.Did you have a way of laying the paper on the board and removing it without it moving sideways? It does seem like a problem. Aren't there pretty inexpensive ways of getting prototype quantities of PWBs made? I recall several outfits that panelize multiple designs into one batch so you can order a small number of boards at not a high price. -- Rick C. ++ Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging ++ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209
Reply by ●April 11, 20202020-04-11
On Sat, 11 Apr 2020 09:51:31 +1000, Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> wrote:>On 9/4/20 3:30 pm, Clifford Heath wrote: >> On 9/4/20 2:56 pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote: >>> On Thu, 9 Apr 2020 12:49:31 +1000, Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> >>> wrote: >>>> ... a disappointing result. >>> I'm curious.� What part of the resulting prints were disappointing? >> >> See <https://www.dropbox.com/s/wm87qcu2imydbja/HpPrint.png?dl=0> >> Scanned at 1200DPI on a good Epson scanner, the upper band is part of >> the solid black banner on a test page, the lower section is from part of >> a PCB. >> >> I can't see the checker-plate pattern in these ones (that might be the >> 1200dpi setting), just the blotchiness. >> >> Can't etch from it anyhow.>Jeff, I was hoping you'd prognosticate further about the reason for this >effect?You're really stretching the range limit of my crystal ball. It's midnight and I feel like the walking dead, but I'll give it a try. My crystal ball tells me it's either a burnt fuser sleeve or melted plastic toner on the fuser or transfer rollers. Some detail: Since the "blotchy" pattern is not at even intervals, my guess(tm) is that there is damage to either the imaging drum, transfer roller, toner cartridge, scrubber, or fuser assembly. In other words, almost everything along the paper path. I would guess(tm) that the light areas look like the toner is not sticking to the paper, which suggests that the paper might be "lumpy", not very flat, or splattered with something greasy. Try different paper and a different toner cart. Look inside (though the back door) at the various rollers and transfer film in the fuser assembly. If you see patches of partially melted toner all over the rollers, that might be the problem. Refurbishing and replacing the fuser in the HP LaserJet 2055 printer is not easy but can be done. You can try to scrape off any accumulated melted toner from the rollers, sleeve, or fuser, but the chances of damaging these are high. If you leave a dent or scratch where you scraped off the melted toner, the fuser will not heat the area sufficient, resulting in the toner not sticking, which can create similar print quality issues. Also, inspect the fuser film sleeve for burnt areas, which can cause similar problems. Refurbished fuser assembly: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/361359899607> Maintenance kit (if you have feed problems): <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+2055+maintenance+kit> Videos on how to replace the fuser assembly: <https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=laserjet+P2055+fuser+replacement> Replacement fuser sleeve: <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+2055+fuser+film+sleeve> Disclaimer: This is only a guess(tm). -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Reply by ●April 11, 20202020-04-11
On 11/4/20 4:10 pm, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote:> On Saturday, April 11, 2020 at 1:00:09 AM UTC-4, dagmarg...@yahoo.com wrote: >> On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 8:19:13 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote: >>> On 9/4/20 9:39 am, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote: >>>> I haven't been able to get toner transfer working since I changed >>>> toner carts. But I've dabbled with two promising variations. >>>> >>>> 1) If you lacquer-coat the PCB *then* transfer the toner, the >>>> lacquer fills in the toner's pores. >>> James, >>> >>> What exactly is the stuff that Americans call lacquer? That's not a term >>> that has a single meaning here. >> >> I'm not completely sure. I believe it might be shellac, made from >> actual shells of actual lac bugs? The important property here is >> that it's alcohol-soluble. You might be able to vet local products >> by checking the clean-up solvents spec'd. >> >> This is what I tried & recommend -- >> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-11-oz-Gloss-White-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-1904830/100163605 >> >> I recommend white, as contrasting brilliantly with the black toner. >> >> It's easily removed with 90% isopropyl alcohol, leaving printer toner >> completely unaffected. Toner scoffs at IPA.Acrylic, thanks. I had no idea that IPA would attack it but not lift toner. That's good to know, I'll give it a try. I'll have to find suitable local products, as the ones you mention don't ship to Australia. I could try shellac, I have some flakes here. It's intrinsically more variable though, being a natural product; the water content and age are factors in using it for French polish. And it doesn't come in a convenient spray can.>>>> The toner image is printed on the paper you peel off the back of >>>> adhesive labels, or in my case, backing peeled off adhesive >>>> shelf-liner paper from the one-dollar store. >>> >>> I tried things like that but they were too slippery - bits of toner just >>> fell off before getting transferred. I'm using toner transfer paper >>> bought for the purpose. >> >> I had that experience early on, years ago. But the current label- >> backing type paper didn't have that problem. It's truly a godsend; >> no more rubbing, soaking and peeling, hoping the toner sticks.The paper I use has a significant starch (I think) content, and wets really quickly - like 10 seconds before it comes off cleanly. The only other relevant factor is how much it slows down the heat transfer in the laminator; even after proper pre-warming I pass it through 2 or 3 times.>> Transferring to a lacquer-coated board might be easier. The lacquer >> is infinitely grabbier than even roughed up copper.Good to know.> BACKING PAPER > This gent illustrates my joyous experience printing onto backing paper, > and the ease of transfer--the toner just comes right off, eliminating > a wet step. He uses the paper he peels off Arlon vinyl. > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haqP8xhsYas > > These are the labels whose baking paper is salvaged and used by > the gentleman in the first of those YouTubes above-- > > Best PRINT half-sheet labels (1/2 page-sized labels) > https://www.amazon.com/Best-Print-200-Half-Sheet/dp/B0069RY9BY > > The big lure of backing paper to me was eliminating the process > variations of thermally transferring toner to copper from paper. > The backing paper goes a long way toward accomplishing that. I > still have trouble getting adhesion to bare copper. > > > Overall, this ability to use two different resist coatings (toner and > lacquer) that dissolve in different solvents feels full of > promise & possibilities...Well, after all, this is only for Saturday afternoon prototyping at RF. Other prototypes can be on assorted grid boards that don't provide a ground plane, and anything more permanent can go through one of the many quick-turn board houses. A friend uses a modified record-player to spin photoresist onto boards, and makes double-sided boards quite frequently, but the process took a lot of work to perfect. There's something about knocking up a schematic in Kicad, laying it on a board, and soldering it up an hour after you started. Sometimes the magic flows and you want to try something *now*. Clifford Heath.
Reply by ●April 11, 20202020-04-11
On 11/4/20 5:03 pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote:> On Sat, 11 Apr 2020 09:51:31 +1000, Clifford Heath > <no.spam@please.net> wrote: > >> On 9/4/20 3:30 pm, Clifford Heath wrote: >>> On 9/4/20 2:56 pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote: >>>> On Thu, 9 Apr 2020 12:49:31 +1000, Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> >>>> wrote: >>>>> ... a disappointing result. >>>> I'm curious. What part of the resulting prints were disappointing? >>> >>> See <https://www.dropbox.com/s/wm87qcu2imydbja/HpPrint.png?dl=0> >>> Scanned at 1200DPI on a good Epson scanner, the upper band is part of >>> the solid black banner on a test page, the lower section is from part of >>> a PCB. >>> >>> I can't see the checker-plate pattern in these ones (that might be the >>> 1200dpi setting), just the blotchiness. >>> >>> Can't etch from it anyhow. > >> Jeff, I was hoping you'd prognosticate further about the reason for this >> effect? > > You're really stretching the range limit of my crystal ball. It's > midnight and I feel like the walking dead, but I'll give it a try. My > crystal ball tells me it's either a burnt fuser sleeve or melted > plastic toner on the fuser or transfer rollers. Some detail: > > Since the "blotchy" pattern is not at even intervals, my guess(tm) is > that there is damage to either the imaging drum, transfer roller, > toner cartridge, scrubber, or fuser assembly. In other words, almost > everything along the paper path. I would guess(tm) that the light > areas look like the toner is not sticking to the paper, which suggests > that the paper might be "lumpy", not very flat, or splattered with > something greasy. Try different paper and a different toner cart. > Look inside (though the back door) at the various rollers and transfer > film in the fuser assembly. If you see patches of partially melted > toner all over the rollers, that might be the problem. Refurbishing > and replacing the fuser in the HP LaserJet 2055 printer is not easy > but can be done. You can try to scrape off any accumulated melted > toner from the rollers, sleeve, or fuser, but the chances of damaging > these are high. If you leave a dent or scratch where you scraped off > the melted toner, the fuser will not heat the area sufficient, > resulting in the toner not sticking, which can create similar print > quality issues. Also, inspect the fuser film sleeve for burnt areas, > which can cause similar problems. > > Refurbished fuser assembly: > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/361359899607> > > Maintenance kit (if you have feed problems): > <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+2055+maintenance+kit> > > Videos on how to replace the fuser assembly: > <https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=laserjet+P2055+fuser+replacement> > > Replacement fuser sleeve: > <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+2055+fuser+film+sleeve> > > Disclaimer: This is only a guess(tm). >Oh wow, quite a lot of things could be the problem. I better have a good look inside before trying another cartridge. Thanks, CH
