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Re: Why Adding a Voltage Amplifier after a Transimpedance Amplifier reduce BW? Book Claim by 0.64

Started by John Larkin May 14, 2015
On Thu, 14 May 2015 10:48:03 -0700 (PDT), Felipe Jimenez
<felipe.m.jimenez@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 10:18:10 AM UTC-7, Phil Hobbs wrote: >> On 05/14/2015 01:12 PM, Phil Hobbs wrote: >> > On 05/14/2015 01:04 PM, Felipe Jimenez wrote: >> >> On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 9:28:05 AM UTC-7, John Larkin wrote: >> >>> On Thu, 14 May 2015 09:15:53 -0700 (PDT), George Herold >> >>> <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote: >> >>> >> >>>> On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 11:57:36 AM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs >> >>>> wrote: >> >>>>> On 05/14/2015 11:50 AM, John Larkin wrote: >> >>>>>> On Thu, 14 May 2015 04:07:59 -0700 (PDT), Phil Hobbs >> >>>>>> <pcdhobbs@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>>>>> >> >>>>>>>> Oh and I'm fairly certain the non-inverting amplifier is >> >>>>>>>> wired up correctly. Between switching back and forth from >> >>>>>>>> the non-inverting to the inverting configuration several >> >>>>>>>> times, I am fairly certain that both configurations were >> >>>>>>>> wired up properly. >> >>>>>>> >> >>>>>>> Hmm... "several times" does make it sound like a solderless >> >>>>>>> breadboard, as John suggested. Those things are slabs of >> >>>>>>> misery, for sure. >> >>>>>> >> >>>>>> Someone deserves an IgNobel prize for inventing them. >> >>>>> >> >>>>> They work okay for making a PIC blink a LED, as long as they're >> >>>>> new. >> >>>>> >> >>>>> Then of course somebody plugs in a resistor from an old reel >> >>>>> without removing the residual adhesive, and two of the holes >> >>>>> become flaky forever. Then the next resistor is maybe >> >>>>> oversize, and bends the crappy metal fingers apart, and the one >> >>>>> after that is corroded, and leaves semi-insulating dust all >> >>>>> over the place.... >> >>>>> >> >>>>> Not to mention a couple of pF of capacitance between adjacent >> >>>>> rows, and many nanohenries in series with all the (nastily >> >>>>> daisy chained) grounds. >> >>>>> >> >>>>> Cheers >> >>>>> >> >>>>> Phil Hobbs >> >>>>> >> >>>>> >> >>>>> -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical >> >>>>> Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog >> >>>>> Electronics >> >>>>> >> >>>>> 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 >> >>>>> >> >>>>> hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net >> >>>> >> >>>> Grin, I was laying out this little pressure circuit for testing >> >>>> the other day, a few flaky connections later and I grabbed my >> >>>> soldering iron and copper clad. >> >>>> >> >>>> I need to order more (copper clad) any decent sources? >> >>>> >> >>>> George H. >> >>> >> >>> ebay usually has tons. Or I can send you a few sheets. I might >> >>> even include a bit of the gold stuff. >> >>> >> >>> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/Protos/Z356_EOM_Timer/Z356_Top.JPG >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> > https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/Protos/Z338_PCB.JPG >> >>> >> >>> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53724080/Protos/D200_BB_4.JPG >> >>> >> >>> >> >> >> >> Hey John...I'm always looking to improve my prototyping skills...What >> >> do you use to cut away your copper on your prototypes? I just use a >> >> razor and slice back and forth, but then I may create shorts when I >> >> fill that part with solder. I see your prototypes have a pretty good >> >> clearance when cutting away the copper to make isolated pads. >> >> >> > >> > Serrated aviation snips (Wiss M3). They last for years. >> >> For making pads, you cut up small rectangles and glue them to the ground >> plane. That makes good power supply bus bars, too. >> >> Cheers >> >> Phil Hobbs >> >> -- >> Dr Philip C D Hobbs >> Principal Consultant >> ElectroOptical Innovations LLC >> Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics >> >> 160 North State Road #203 >> Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 >> >> hobbs at electrooptical dot net >> http://electrooptical.net > >That is true and I'll glue my surfboards onto the copper boards for ICs (when required), but I noticed John cut away his copper in a pretty nice fashion (along with gluing boards). As for me, I prefer to cut away copper for isolated pads instead of gluing a bunch of small pieces of copper to the board. Mainly because I never have glue around when I need it. And those serrated aviation clips. We have them and I hate them :) I can't cut straight long (several inches) pieces of copper board to save my life. Which is why I bought a cheap-o mighty mite table saw from harbor freight. But since I have to make a purchase for some lab supplies, I'll just buy a bulk of glue and be done with it.
We have an ancient rusty hand shear/brake thing that I use to cut FR4. We also have a nice shiny foot shear, but I'm not allowed to use it. The epoxy-glass dulls the blades. -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc picosecond timing precision measurement jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com