Forums

T568A/B timewaster

Started by Don Y March 2, 2012
On 3/7/2012 10:59 AM, krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

>> I'd need a couple of really wide (though shallow) drawers >> for each sort of tool. :< Hence the idea of one of those >> really large (wall size) rolling toolboxes. > > If you're really looking for one of those, HD has a pretty good price on their > stainless tool caddy. Both pieces are around $750, about half what I've seen > for similar units elsewhere. I've thought about it, but all of my tools > wouldn't fit and I don't need it for the small stuff, really. I also don't > know why I'd want it all on wheels.
I look at it each time I'm there. But, I'd need *two* of them *or* a way to *stack* them (my tools fill a volume 4'x1.5'x7' and that doesn't count anything with a power cord or "oversized" like wheel/pulley pullers, torque wrenches, levels, hand saws, dado jigs, etc.). The wheels are a non-issue -- they wouldn't offer me any added value (though might offer someone who does automechanics some added flexibility -- rolling it around a vehicle-in-repair). But, I probably wouldn't remove them if they were there... I am still looking for a solution that would address more of the storage issues -- tools, test equipment, etc.
Don Y wrote:
> > Hi Michael, > > On 3/7/2012 4:55 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> Understood. My "small tools" collection would never fit! :> > E.g., I have ~dozen different "planes" -- scrubs, jointers, > jacks, spokeshave, block, smoothings, etc. The jointers barely > qualify as "small" (24 inches long). Easily 150+ "drivers" > (sets of phillips, slotted, hex, torx, clutch, square, pozidriv, > Reed & Prince, etc.), etc.
I bought 100 new #2 Philips once for $20. I was going to grind the ends off and braze torx & other security bits to them but they turned out to be a lot better quality than I expected. That was over 15 years ago, and I haven't worn out any of the ones I've used.
> I'd need a couple of really wide (though shallow) drawers > for each sort of tool. :< Hence the idea of one of those > really large (wall size) rolling toolboxes.
I'm making long, full width drawers for those relay racks. They are almost three feet deep, and the drawers will be about 22 inches wide, in various depths.
> > I prefered to buy my own, so I always got the same kind. > > When you're 10, you much prefer someone else buying them for you! :> > I picked out the first one and the others were just "repeats". > Not much "surprise" involved each time I got one -- but at least > I knew I would get what I *wanted*!
No, I asked for things like 100 foot extennsion cords and a propane torch when I was that age. Scared the daylights out of my parents! :)
> > I used pieces of carboard between the faces of pairs of cabinets and > > packing tape when I moved. > > Tape sticks to the surfaces. I wrap each drawer in saran wrap > (then slide it back in) and the entire cabinet with it. Wrapping each > drawer results in some "excess" bunching up in front of each drawer > which acts to cushion the little plastic handles.
The Acro Mills cabinets are recessed enough to protect the drawers The 'handle' is small, compared to other brands. Her is a smaller version of the metal cabinet type I have: http://img0.etsystatic.com/il_fullxfull.309954248.jpg I used the tape on the sides of the cabinets, with a piece of cardboard between each pair. I hauled them well over 1000 miles in my old stepvan when i moved, and only a couple parts vibrated out of the 1000+ drawers. The residue on the painted steel was easy to remove with Goo Gone.
> > Fabric glue is flexible, and holds fabric quite well. My mother was > > a seamstress and used it for some repairs, when stitches would show. > > I don't doubt it holds. My objection is removing it -- changing a > label, etc. The leather "luggage tag" approach seems to work well. > Looks like it belongs -- without drawing attention to itself.
Then use velcro. :)
> > There is a Japanese patent on a machine that grinds up old circuit > > boards to recover the metals. If the boards are fiberglass, they use > > acid to remove the remaining metal, then rinse it and sell the shreaded > > fiberglass for reuse in things like Spas and other fiberglass products. > > I harvest some parts off old boards before sending them to a recycler. > > Lately, I have been digging through the *cases* looking for > particular shapes of metal pieces (I REALLY wish I owned a > brake!).
I have this small brake: http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-bending-brake-39103.html Here are a couple more: http://www.harborfreight.com/30-inch-bending-brake-67240.html http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch-metal-brake-with-stand-91012.html I kept the cases of some early, tall tower cases. It is a lot thicker than that in newer, smaller computer cases. I have about a half ton of used angle iron & other metal stored behind my garage in what was one of two horse stalls. The other is used to pile up scrap metal, till there is enough to sell for scrap. -- You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
Hi Michael,

On 3/8/2012 7:06 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

>> Understood. My "small tools" collection would never fit! :> >> E.g., I have ~dozen different "planes" -- scrubs, jointers, >> jacks, spokeshave, block, smoothings, etc. The jointers barely >> qualify as "small" (24 inches long). Easily 150+ "drivers" >> (sets of phillips, slotted, hex, torx, clutch, square, pozidriv, >> Reed& Prince, etc.), etc. > > I bought 100 new #2 Philips once for $20. I was going to grind the > ends off and braze torx& other security bits to them but they turned > out to be a lot better quality than I expected. That was over 15 years > ago, and I haven't worn out any of the ones I've used.
We had a (secret) "employee store" where you could buy claw hammers for 5c, jointer planes for $1, etc. Of course, the "selection" varied greatly/unpredictably, so you couldn't count on finding some particular item that you needed, there. But, if you're a teenager accumulating tools for your "life to come", who cares if you end up with nutdrivers this week, planes next week, hand saws the week after, etc.?
>> I'd need a couple of really wide (though shallow) drawers >> for each sort of tool. :< Hence the idea of one of those >> really large (wall size) rolling toolboxes. > > I'm making long, full width drawers for those relay racks. They are > almost three feet deep, and the drawers will be about 22 inches wide, in > various depths.
I had thought of taking small 1U-4U servers, discarding the electronics inside, *keeping* the rails and fabricating a heavy duty set of drawers out of those. But, too much work and I'd end up with a hodge-podge of oddball looking drawer fronts. "Hmmm... did I put the hammers in the IBM or the HP?"
>>> I prefered to buy my own, so I always got the same kind. >> >> When you're 10, you much prefer someone else buying them for you! :> >> I picked out the first one and the others were just "repeats". >> Not much "surprise" involved each time I got one -- but at least >> I knew I would get what I *wanted*! > > No, I asked for things like 100 foot extennsion cords and a propane > torch when I was that age. Scared the daylights out of my parents! :)
Dad already had that sort of stuff in his shop. But, you knew you weren't going to be "walking away with" any of that when you moved out! :>
>>> I used pieces of carboard between the faces of pairs of cabinets and >>> packing tape when I moved. >> >> Tape sticks to the surfaces. I wrap each drawer in saran wrap >> (then slide it back in) and the entire cabinet with it. Wrapping each >> drawer results in some "excess" bunching up in front of each drawer >> which acts to cushion the little plastic handles. > > The Acro Mills cabinets are recessed enough to protect the drawers
The cabinets I have are also made my Akro Mills. It doesn't appear that they are still in production, though. Mine have 60 drawers (10 rows of 6). My searches only turned up 64 drawer products... When the drawers are fully inserted, the tip of the handle is "behind" the plane formed by the face of the metal cabinet. But just *barely*. I.e., if you put an inflexible sheet of wood across the face, the drawers would be safe -- from all but violent blows. However, simply sliding the cabinets back into the cardboard (paper?) "sleeves" that they were wrapped with when purchased doesn't give that sort of protection. The wadded up saran wrap coupled with shipping the cabinets in pairs -- face to face -- was what enabled me to keep them for all these years (and through all those *moves*) without busting the drawers.
> The 'handle' is small, compared to other brands. Her is a smaller > version of the metal cabinet type I have: > > I used the tape on the sides of the cabinets, with a piece of > cardboard between each pair. I hauled them well over 1000 miles in my > old stepvan when i moved, and only a couple parts vibrated out of the > 1000+ drawers.
Try entrusting them to professional monkeys^W movers! :<
> The residue on the painted steel was easy to remove with > Goo Gone.
GooGone/acetone will remove the paint from these (they are very old). I'd even be hesitant to use spirits on them, at this point. Other cleaners (awesome, etc.) dull the finish (and I would never use around the clear "plastic")
>>> Fabric glue is flexible, and holds fabric quite well. My mother was >>> a seamstress and used it for some repairs, when stitches would show. >> >> I don't doubt it holds. My objection is removing it -- changing a >> label, etc. The leather "luggage tag" approach seems to work well. >> Looks like it belongs -- without drawing attention to itself. > > Then use velcro. :)
Or LUGGAGE TAGS! :> Much less effort: un-"buckle" the strap on the tag; slip it around one of the handles of the bag; re-buckle the strap. Want to change the label? Slide out the business card and mark up another...
>>> There is a Japanese patent on a machine that grinds up old circuit >>> boards to recover the metals. If the boards are fiberglass, they use >>> acid to remove the remaining metal, then rinse it and sell the shreaded >>> fiberglass for reuse in things like Spas and other fiberglass products. >>> I harvest some parts off old boards before sending them to a recycler. >> >> Lately, I have been digging through the *cases* looking for >> particular shapes of metal pieces (I REALLY wish I owned a >> brake!). > > I have this small brake: > > Here are a couple more: > > I kept the cases of some early, tall tower cases. It is a lot thicker > than that in newer, smaller computer cases. I have about a half ton of > used angle iron& other metal stored behind my garage in what was one of > two horse stalls. The other is used to pile up scrap metal, till there > is enough to sell for scrap.
I visit the local recyclers and cherry-pick through the scrap. At pennies a pound, they don't even care if I take a few items out. Though, at some point, some pencil-neck is probably going to throw a fit over the "liability issue" and prohibit *anyone* from doing this sort of thing. (You actually have to be careful to plan how you will get in and out of the "dumpsters" -- the size of semi trailers -- BEFORE you climb in lest you get trapped in there! Hint: make sure there is a big pile of stuff *somewhere* that you can climb *up* to get back to the top, again) I took the bottoms of a few blade servers to make a cart (heavy gauge steel, not aluminum). But, that still means I will have to cut the pieces to get the size that I want, etc. (though I won't have to worry about making that nice *crease*!)
Don Y wrote:
> > Hi Michael, > > On 3/8/2012 7:06 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote: > > >> Understood. My "small tools" collection would never fit! :> > >> E.g., I have ~dozen different "planes" -- scrubs, jointers, > >> jacks, spokeshave, block, smoothings, etc. The jointers barely > >> qualify as "small" (24 inches long). Easily 150+ "drivers" > >> (sets of phillips, slotted, hex, torx, clutch, square, pozidriv, > >> Reed& Prince, etc.), etc. > > > > I bought 100 new #2 Philips once for $20. I was going to grind the > > ends off and braze torx& other security bits to them but they turned > > out to be a lot better quality than I expected. That was over 15 years > > ago, and I haven't worn out any of the ones I've used. > > We had a (secret) "employee store" where you could buy claw hammers > for 5c, jointer planes for $1, etc. Of course, the "selection" > varied greatly/unpredictably, so you couldn't count on finding some > particular item that you needed, there. But, if you're a teenager > accumulating tools for your "life to come", who cares if you end up > with nutdrivers this week, planes next week, hand saws the week > after, etc.?
One place let you go to the tool room and get a scrap pass for returned hand tools. Most were damaged, but some were from people who were fired, quit or retired and look almost new. You could also get small items they had junked, before it was moved to the area where a local surplus shop bought it by the pound. I got a bunch of modules for the PRC-77 that had been through life cycle testing. They all worked, but couldn't be shipped in radios.
> I had thought of taking small 1U-4U servers, discarding the > electronics inside, *keeping* the rails and fabricating a > heavy duty set of drawers out of those. But, too much work > and I'd end up with a hodge-podge of oddball looking drawer > fronts. "Hmmm... did I put the hammers in the IBM or the HP?"
Everyone knows that the hammers go in the Dell servers. Woodworking tools go in the IBM servers and the metalworking tools go in the HP.
> Dad already had that sort of stuff in his shop. But, you knew > you weren't going to be "walking away with" any of that when > you moved out! :>
I had the opposite problem. I had mere and better tools than my dad, and they kept disappearing into his collection.
> > The Acro Mills cabinets are recessed enough to protect the drawers > > The cabinets I have are also made my Akro Mills. It doesn't appear > that they are still in production, though. Mine have 60 drawers > (10 rows of 6). My searches only turned up 64 drawer products... > > When the drawers are fully inserted, the tip of the handle is > "behind" the plane formed by the face of the metal cabinet. But > just *barely*. I.e., if you put an inflexible sheet of wood > across the face, the drawers would be safe -- from all but violent > blows. > > However, simply sliding the cabinets back into the cardboard > (paper?) "sleeves" that they were wrapped with when purchased > doesn't give that sort of protection. The wadded up saran wrap > coupled with shipping the cabinets in pairs -- face to face -- > was what enabled me to keep them for all these years (and > through all those *moves*) without busting the drawers.
I used thick corrugated cardboard, about 1/4" thick that was the same size as the cabinets. Then they were stacked under a workbench that had been a PDP-8 computer in a factory.
> > > The 'handle' is small, compared to other brands. Her is a smaller > > version of the metal cabinet type I have: > > > > I used the tape on the sides of the cabinets, with a piece of > > cardboard between each pair. I hauled them well over 1000 miles in my > > old stepvan when i moved, and only a couple parts vibrated out of the > > 1000+ drawers. > > Try entrusting them to professional monkeys^W movers! :<
I moved myself. 17,000+ pounds of tools, parts manuals and personal items in two trips in a stepvan.
> > > The residue on the painted steel was easy to remove with > > Goo Gone. > > GooGone/acetone will remove the paint from these (they are very > old). I'd even be hesitant to use spirits on them, at this > point. Other cleaners (awesome, etc.) dull the finish (and > I would never use around the clear "plastic")
I printed folded liners with the labels to fit inside the drawers. Not only did you not need to stick them to the drawers, they were easy to replace.
> > Then use velcro. :) > > Or LUGGAGE TAGS! :> Much less effort: un-"buckle" the strap on > the tag; slip it around one of the handles of the bag; re-buckle > the strap. Want to change the label? Slide out the business > card and mark up another...
As long as there is no chance of them getting caught on something. :)
> I visit the local recyclers and cherry-pick through the > scrap. At pennies a pound, they don't even care if I take > a few items out. Though, at some point, some pencil-neck > is probably going to throw a fit over the "liability issue" > and prohibit *anyone* from doing this sort of thing. > (You actually have to be careful to plan how you will > get in and out of the "dumpsters" -- the size of semi > trailers -- BEFORE you climb in lest you get trapped > in there! Hint: make sure there is a big pile of stuff > *somewhere* that you can climb *up* to get back to the > top, again) > > I took the bottoms of a few blade servers to make a cart > (heavy gauge steel, not aluminum). But, that still means I > will have to cut the pieces to get the size that I want, etc. > (though I won't have to worry about making that nice *crease*!)
That is where air tools come in handy. :) -- You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.