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From breadboard to soldering

Started by AK May 17, 2019
I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things. :-)

Thanks,
        Andy
On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

>I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD. > >Any advice appreciated. > >Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need? > >I was going to order these. > >https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf > >SPDT switches > >4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside > >I already have IC chip socket adaptors. > >I am sure I am forgetting things. :-) > >Thanks, > Andy
22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers." I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight. https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0 -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc lunatic fringe electronics
On 5/17/19 5:39 AM, AK wrote:
> I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD. > > Any advice appreciated. > > Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?
You'll be much happier with #26 tinned solid wire for on-board connections and tinned #24 stranded for off-board. I usually wire up through-hole protos mostly with the scraps of clipped-off leads littering the bench, but I also have a roll of #26 bare solid tinned copper wire.
> > I was going to order these. >
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf
>
Nasty phenolic stuff, untinned, single-sided--as a beginner you'll cook the pads off it when you solder. You'd be better off with these: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Prototype-Solderless-8X12cm-PCB-Board-Protoboard-Breadboard-Perfboard-DOT/253826860373> Those ones are FR4, two-sided, tinned, and have plated-through holes, so they're much harder to damage. They're also cheaper. ;)
> SPDT switches > > 4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside > > I already have IC chip socket adaptors.
If you're going to use sockets, use the good ones with the machined jacks. The folded-metal ones get flaky. Also, get some Kester 44 63/37 tin-lead solder. I never use anything else. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-Rosin-Core-Solder-60-40-031-0-5oz-Dispenser-Pack/202006855960 This is 60/40, which is the old standard, but it works fine and it's three bucks. It's the RA flux that really counts. An RA flux pen is super useful for when your joints get crudded up because you've overheated them or soldered them too many times, or when you're using old-stock components whose tinning has oxidized over time. This one is MG Chemicals #835, which is what I use as liquid flux. <https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-835-P-Rosin-Flux-Pen-Type-RA/122209720797> Good luck with it! Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net
On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

>I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD. > >Any advice appreciated. > >Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need? > >I was going to order these. > >https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf
That will work, so will an ordinary perforated board, you just run the leads of the passive parts on the connection side to the active parts (IC socket in your case) Everyone develops their own techniques. For linear circuits passive components supply all the connections, for digital I like using a board that has plated-through holes. But for you, maybe something that closely approximates your breadboard might be appropriate. Back in olden times, we'd drive brass escutcheon pins or wire brads into actual wood boards then solder to the top of the nail heads. We didn't have that plastic malarkey to prototype with, and tube sockets were easier to mount to wood boards. I never used an actual "bread-board" but plywood and Masonite (the latter for panels to hold meters, switches and such) I'd probably use stranded 24 AWG tinned insulated wire for jumpers. May help to take a picture of what actually works, just in case...
> >SPDT switches > >4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside > >I already have IC chip socket adaptors. > >I am sure I am forgetting things. :-) > >Thanks, > Andy
On Fri, 17 May 2019 07:19:47 -0700, John Larkin
<jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

>On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK ><scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote: > >>I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD. >> >>Any advice appreciated. >> >>Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need? >> >>I was going to order these. >> >>https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf >> >>SPDT switches >> >>4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside >> >>I already have IC chip socket adaptors. >> >>I am sure I am forgetting things. :-) >> >>Thanks, >> Andy > > >22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated >wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers." > >I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the >parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight. > >https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0 > >https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0 > >https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0 > >https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0 > >https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0
Neat. What bit are you using in the Dremel?
On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

>I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD. > >Any advice appreciated. > >Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need? > >I was going to order these. > >https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf > >SPDT switches > >4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside > >I already have IC chip socket adaptors. > >I am sure I am forgetting things. :-) > >Thanks, > Andy
I don't know how much experience you have with soldering so here's some advice about it: Remember to use plenty of heat to get the job done fast. This is really important because heat causes oxidation which then prevents the solder from sticking. So get in and oput as fast as possible. The main job of flux is to clean oxides from the metals to be soldered AND to absorb oxygen during the soldering process. The longer the flux is kept hot the more oxygen the flux absorbs until it saturates. Then it is no good. Oftentimes adding more flux won't fix things because the saturated and burnt flux prevents the new flux from getting to the metal. Then the only option is to clean the burnt flux off by wiping or othger mechanical means. Once the burnt flux is removed the joint can be refluxed and soldered. The above info applies to all soldering done with fluxes. Like soldering copper pipe and silver soldering steel, for example. Eric
In article <qbmhhd$r2j$1@dont-email.me>, 
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net says...
> > Nasty phenolic stuff, untinned, single-sided--as a beginner you'll cook > the pads off it when you solder. You'd be better off with these: > > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Prototype-Solderless-8X12cm-PCB-Board-Protoboard-Breadboard-Perfboard-DOT/253826860373> > > Those ones are FR4, two-sided, tinned, and have plated-through holes, so > they're much harder to damage. They're also cheaper. ;) > > >
Those boards are much better quality. However they are just single holes. I like the boards that are made similar to the phenolic with the copper traces spaced so that 3 or 4 holes in line are already together. Not sure if you can find any like that or not. I did not check to see. Just have not done that building in a while. Seems like most of my building had just been hooking togetehr modules with the Arduino processor boards.
On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:47:13 AM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
> On 5/17/19 5:39 AM, AK wrote: > > I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD. > > > > Any advice appreciated. > > > > Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need? > > You'll be much happier with #26 tinned solid wire for on-board > connections and tinned #24 stranded for off-board. I usually wire up > through-hole protos mostly with the scraps of clipped-off leads > littering the bench, but I also have a roll of #26 bare solid tinned > copper wire. > > > > > I was going to order these. > > > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf > > > Nasty phenolic stuff, untinned, single-sided--as a beginner you'll cook > the pads off it when you solder. You'd be better off with these: > > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Prototype-Solderless-8X12cm-PCB-Board-Protoboard-Breadboard-Perfboard-DOT/253826860373> > > Those ones are FR4, two-sided, tinned, and have plated-through holes, so > they're much harder to damage. They're also cheaper. ;) > > > SPDT switches > > > > 4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside > > > > I already have IC chip socket adaptors. > > If you're going to use sockets, use the good ones with the machined > jacks. The folded-metal ones get flaky. > > Also, get some Kester 44 63/37 tin-lead solder. I never use anything else. > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-Rosin-Core-Solder-60-40-031-0-5oz-Dispenser-Pack/202006855960 > > This is 60/40, which is the old standard, but it works fine and it's > three bucks. It's the RA flux that really counts. > > An RA flux pen is super useful for when your joints get crudded up > because you've overheated them or soldered them too many times, or when > you're using old-stock components whose tinning has oxidized over time. > This one is MG Chemicals #835, which is what I use as liquid flux. > <https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-835-P-Rosin-Flux-Pen-Type-RA/122209720797> > > Good luck with it! > > Cheers > > Phil Hobbs > > -- > Dr Philip C D Hobbs > Principal Consultant > ElectroOptical Innovations LLC > Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics > > 160 North State Road #203 > Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 > > hobbs at electrooptical dot net > http://electrooptical.net
Concerning the bare wire. Is there a worry about something accidentally pushing it against the board and shorting out or is it stiff enuf?
On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:58:28 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
> On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK > <scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote: > > >I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD. > > > >Any advice appreciated. > > > >Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need? > > > >I was going to order these. > > > >https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf > > That will work, so will an ordinary perforated board, you just run the > leads of the passive parts on the connection side to the active parts > (IC socket in your case) > > Everyone develops their own techniques. For linear circuits passive > components supply all the connections, for digital I like using a > board that has plated-through holes. > > But for you, maybe something that closely approximates your breadboard > might be appropriate. > > Back in olden times, we'd drive brass escutcheon pins or wire brads > into actual wood boards then solder to the top of the nail heads. We > didn't have that plastic malarkey to prototype with, and tube sockets > were easier to mount to wood boards. I never used an actual > "bread-board" but plywood and Masonite (the latter for panels to hold > meters, switches and such) > > I'd probably use stranded 24 AWG tinned insulated wire for jumpers. > > May help to take a picture of what actually works, just in case... > > > >SPDT switches > > > >4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside > > > >I already have IC chip socket adaptors. > > > >I am sure I am forgetting things. :-) > > > >Thanks, > > Andy
If I go with the Prototype Solderless 8X12cm PCB Board, how do I connect to other parts from an IC? In my example some of the pins need connections to 3 other areas. Andy
On Fri, 17 May 2019 11:03:25 -0400, default <default@defaulter.net>
wrote:

>On Fri, 17 May 2019 07:19:47 -0700, John Larkin ><jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote: > >>On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK >><scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>>I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD. >>> >>>Any advice appreciated. >>> >>>Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need? >>> >>>I was going to order these. >>> >>>https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf >>> >>>SPDT switches >>> >>>4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside >>> >>>I already have IC chip socket adaptors. >>> >>>I am sure I am forgetting things. :-) >>> >>>Thanks, >>> Andy >> >> >>22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated >>wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers." >> >>I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the >>parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight. >> >>https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0 >> >>https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0 >> >>https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0 >> >>https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0 >> >>https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0 > >Neat. What bit are you using in the Dremel?
Carbide dental burr with a rounded rice-shaped end. They are cheap on Amazon or ebay and last about forever. Every year or so I have one of our PCB houses gold plate a square foot of copperclad FR4, and I shear that up as needed. It looks and solders great and doesn't tarnish. -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc picosecond timing precision measurement jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com