"Bob E." wrote:> > >> When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection possible. > >> Every crimp is one more dB lost. > > I'm no RF expert, just my impression--possibly mistaken.The loss should be under .1 dB for a good F connector, ant they are used into the GHz range. -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
Unsolderable wire?
Started by ●January 19, 2014
Reply by ●January 19, 20142014-01-19
Reply by ●January 19, 20142014-01-19
On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:22:18 -0800, Bob E. <bespoke@invalid.tv> wrote:>I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's >almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a >temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally >tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the >iron. > >I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester >60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against >the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the >2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later. > >My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the >dielectric insulation. > >The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned >copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not >aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that >back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now. > >What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this >before. > >Thanks.--- Use crimp ferrules. http://www.te.com/catalog/feat/en/c/10028 11.5 at: http://snebulos.mit.edu/projects/reference/NASA-Generic/NASA-STD-8739-4.pdf JF
Reply by ●January 19, 20142014-01-19
On 2014-01-19, Bob E <bespoke@invalid.tv> wrote:> I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb.> The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned > copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not > aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that > back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now.yeah stainless steel braid, aluminium shield and a copper-plated steel core. most of the RG6 I've used is like that. a solderable F connector socket is probably the best way to terminate it.> What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder?Give up! If you can't give up spot weld it to some tinned copper. -- For a good time: install ntp --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
Reply by ●January 19, 20142014-01-19
On 19/01/2014 04:22, Bob E. wrote:> I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's > almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a > temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally > tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the > iron. > > I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester > 60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against > the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the > 2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later. > > My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the > dielectric insulation. > > The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned > copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not > aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that > back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now. > > What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this > before. > > Thanks.If it's for personal use, tightly wrap a dozen turns of tinned copper wire (or silver plated) around the braid, twist the end together and solder to these. Cheers -- Syd
Reply by ●January 19, 20142014-01-19
"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message news:v8lmd9tfpopj1kuv72m95aouolvlduj539@4ax.com...> If it's like this cr*p they sell at Home Despot, it's copper- > clad steel core with an _aluminum_ braid shield.Aluminum is a poor choice for a crimped connection. Remember the problems with household aluminum wiring -- even when it was screwed down?
Reply by ●January 19, 20142014-01-19
In article <0001HW.CF0092FA036D6B77B01029BF@news.eternal-september.org>, bespoke@invalid.tv says...> > I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's > almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a > temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally > tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the > iron. > > I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester > 60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against > the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the > 2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later. > > My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the > dielectric insulation. > > The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned > copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not > aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that > back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now. > > What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this > before. > > Thanks.Electroplated wire, most likely nickel. Jamie
Reply by ●January 19, 20142014-01-19
Well, what does it feel like? Steel wire feels very stiff. Grab a leaded component out of the box and ponder the leads; they're probably tin plated steel (check with a magnet). Most resistors, capacitors and diodes are. Some smaller ceramic caps have thicker, softer copper leads; find some if you can. Aluminum wire is very soft, floppy stuff. It is much softer than copper, than copper is of steel. If that's what it is... oh well. As for soldering practice... the old saw about "apply solder to the opposite side of the joint" is complete BS. Forget about it. Don't try soldering as you were told, make the solder happy and good joints will follow. First goal, get the part hot: hold the iron on the part, and apply solder right beside the iron, or to it, so the iron heats and wets what it's touching. On a braid, solder will spread and soon the joint will accept solder from all sides. Tim -- Seven Transistor Labs Electrical Engineering Consultation Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com "Bob E." <bespoke@invalid.tv> wrote in message news:0001HW.CF0092FA036D6B77B01029BF@news.eternal-september.org...>I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. >It's > almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With > both a > temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I > finally > tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite > the > iron. > > I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester > 60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid > against > the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting > the > 2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later. > > My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted > the > dielectric insulation. > > The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is > tinned > copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not > aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed > that > back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now. > > What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen > this > before. > > Thanks. >
Reply by ●January 19, 20142014-01-19
On 01/18/2014 08:22 PM, Bob E. wrote:> I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's > almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a > temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally > tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the > iron. > > I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester > 60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid against > the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with melting the > 2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later. > > My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted the > dielectric insulation. > > The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is tinned > copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly not > aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've trimmed that > back and it's not part of this frustrating process right now. > > What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen this > before. > > Thanks. >A solder pot is preferred. Otherwise burn all the non-metallic weirdness away with your trusty Zippo.
Reply by ●January 19, 20142014-01-19
Michael A. Terrell scribbled thus:> > "Bob E." wrote: >> >> Yes it's that crap. >> >> > I suppose you could try an aluminum flux, but can't you just >> > unravel and gather enough of the shield to crimp into a ring >> > terminal or something? >> >> Yeah, that's my next move. I just couldn't believe that something >> couldn't be soldered. I guess REALLY agressive flux is required, as >> you say. >> >> When it comes to broadcast TV I try to solder every connection >> possible. Every crimp is one more dB lost. > > > You must do lousy crimping, if you lose a dB. >I agree ! A good crimp is at least as good as the best solder joint. -- Best Regards: Baron.
Reply by ●January 19, 20142014-01-19
On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 20:22:18 -0800, Bob E. wrote:> I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's > almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With > both a temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I > finally tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid > opposite the iron. > > I've applied some Kester rosin paste flux as well using my trusty Kester > 60/40 lead-based rosin core solder. No joy. I'm not holding the braid > against the PCB now, I'm just trying to tin the braid and then deal with > melting the 2 solders (on the PCB and the braid) together later. > > My first attempt--before I realized that I was overheating it--I melted > the dielectric insulation.Its virtually impossible to tin polyethylene coax braid without softening the dielectric. It will re-solidify. PTFE (Teflon) is better in that respect.> > The mesh is made from some silver-colored braid which I thought is > tinned copper but now I'm of the opinion that it's steel; it's certainly > not aluminum. There is also foil which is probably aluminum but I've > trimmed that back and it's not part of this frustrating process right > now.If you think the braid is steel, try it with a magnet. From a quick look at Belden specs, they, at least, don't make any RG6 types with steel braid. There are some versions with aluminum braid.> > What's the trick to getting this braid to take solder? I've never seen > this before. >If it's aluminum, you can't. Either get some cable with tinned or silver plated copper braid, or put a BNC socket on the PCB, and a crimp BNC on the cable. (I don't trust crimping to aluminum, BTW, there's a metallurgical creep problem) -- "Design is the reverse of analysis" (R.D. Middlebrook)
