Just recently purchased a house and it has a whole house fan. Unfortunately, the folks who installed the A/C disconnected the motorized louvers to get into the crawl space a couple months ago and I'm not sure exactly how it was wired. In the crawl space there is a black (which had a wire nut on it) and bare wire and a white wire which looks like it was curled up to not use it (it is not stripped). The motor on the louvers has 2 black wires and a green wire. Unfortunately, I could not find any documentation on the motor. We have 2 separate switches so the louvers are independently controlled. Just wondering what the wires on the motor are. The motor is a Dayton Motor Shutter Model 2C904 115V 60Hz. Any info greatly appreciated.
Whole house fan motor
Started by ●May 5, 2013
Reply by ●May 5, 20132013-05-05
telengard wrote:> Just recently purchased a house and it has a whole house fan. > Unfortunately, the folks who installed the A/C disconnected the > motorized louvers to get into the crawl space a couple months ago and > I'm not sure exactly how it was wired. In the crawl space there is a > black (which had a wire nut on it) and bare wire and a white wire > which looks like it was curled up to not use it (it is not stripped). > The motor on the louvers has 2 black wires and a green wire. > Unfortunately, I could not find any documentation on the motor. We > have 2 separate switches so the louvers are independently controlled. > > Just wondering what the wires on the motor are. The motor is a Dayton > Motor Shutter Model 2C904 115V 60Hz. > > Any info greatly appreciated. >the two wires are your 120 volt AC lines from the motor.. in your case, you can connect the black wires from the motor to the white and black wire that is capped off.. the green wire from the motor is the ground which is connected to the bare wire you see.. P.S. since there is a wire nut on the black wire, this tells me it could be alive or at some point may come alive... I would first kill the circuit that supplies that before attaching the last black lead from the motor to that one. Also, this appears to be a single direction motor, this tells me that the shutter drive must not have a stop on it or it just keeps going around and around.. Most likely has an eccentric wheel or a wheel with an offset swing arm on it. Jamie
Reply by ●May 5, 20132013-05-05
On May 5, 8:12=A0pm, Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:> telengard wrote: > > Just recently purchased a house and it has a whole house fan. > > Unfortunately, the folks who installed the A/C disconnected the > > motorized louvers to get into the crawl space a couple months ago and > > I'm not sure exactly how it was wired. =A0In the crawl space there is a > > black (which had a wire nut on it) and bare wire and a white wire > > which looks like it was curled up to not use it (it is not stripped). > > The motor on the louvers has 2 black wires and a green wire. > > Unfortunately, I could not find any documentation on the motor. =A0We > > have 2 separate switches so the louvers are independently controlled. > > > Just wondering what the wires on the motor are. =A0The motor is a Dayto=n> > Motor Shutter Model 2C904 115V 60Hz. > > > Any info greatly appreciated. > > =A0 the two wires are your 120 volt AC lines from the motor.. > > =A0 in your case, you can connect the black wires from the motor to > the white and black wire that is capped off.. > > =A0 the green wire from the motor is the ground which is connected to the > bare wire you see.. > > =A0 P.S. > =A0 =A0 since there is a wire nut on the black wire, this tells me it cou=ld> be alive or at some point may come alive... > =A0 I would first kill the circuit that supplies that before attaching th=e> last black lead from the motor to that one. > > =A0 =A0Also, this appears to be a single direction motor, this tells me t=hat> the shutter drive must not have a stop on it or it just keeps going > around and around.. Most likely has an eccentric wheel or a wheel with > an offset swing arm on it. > > JamieHi Jamie, Thanks for the info, I have been shutting off the breaker when working with this. I guess I'm surprised that the white wire would be used, I guess the A/C guys may have just twisted it up for safety. That must be the missing piece, I had tested both blacks to the one black (assuming the white was was wrapped up as it was not used). And yes, the motor has some kind of arm attached to it w/ a spring.
Reply by ●May 5, 20132013-05-05
On 5/5/2013 8:12 PM, telengard wrote:> On May 5, 8:12 pm, Jamie > <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote: >> telengard wrote: >>> Just recently purchased a house and it has a whole house fan. >>> Unfortunately, the folks who installed the A/C disconnected the >>> motorized louvers to get into the crawl space a couple months ago and >>> I'm not sure exactly how it was wired. In the crawl space there is a >>> black (which had a wire nut on it) and bare wire and a white wire >>> which looks like it was curled up to not use it (it is not stripped). >>> The motor on the louvers has 2 black wires and a green wire. >>> Unfortunately, I could not find any documentation on the motor. We >>> have 2 separate switches so the louvers are independently controlled. >> >>> Just wondering what the wires on the motor are. The motor is a Dayton >>> Motor Shutter Model 2C904 115V 60Hz. >> >>> Any info greatly appreciated. >> >> the two wires are your 120 volt AC lines from the motor.. >> >> in your case, you can connect the black wires from the motor to >> the white and black wire that is capped off.. >> >> the green wire from the motor is the ground which is connected to the >> bare wire you see.. >> >> P.S. >> since there is a wire nut on the black wire, this tells me it could >> be alive or at some point may come alive... >> I would first kill the circuit that supplies that before attaching the >> last black lead from the motor to that one. >> >> Also, this appears to be a single direction motor, this tells me that >> the shutter drive must not have a stop on it or it just keeps going >> around and around.. Most likely has an eccentric wheel or a wheel with >> an offset swing arm on it. >> >> Jamie > > Hi Jamie, > > Thanks for the info, I have been shutting off the breaker when working > with this. I guess I'm surprised that the white wire would be used, I > guess the A/C guys may have just twisted it up for safety. That must > be the missing piece, I had tested both blacks to the one black > (assuming the white was was wrapped up as it was not used). > > And yes, the motor has some kind of arm attached to it w/ a spring. >When you say the white wire was wrapped, is it wrapped with black tape? If so it is probably a hot from the switch.
Reply by ●May 6, 20132013-05-06
On Sun, 5 May 2013 16:46:41 -0700 (PDT), telengard <telengard@gmail.com> wrote:>Just recently purchased a house and it has a whole house fan. >Unfortunately, the folks who installed the A/C disconnected the >motorized louvers to get into the crawl space a couple months ago and >I'm not sure exactly how it was wired. In the crawl space there is a >black (which had a wire nut on it) and bare wire and a white wire >which looks like it was curled up to not use it (it is not stripped). >The motor on the louvers has 2 black wires and a green wire. >Unfortunately, I could not find any documentation on the motor. We >have 2 separate switches so the louvers are independently controlled. > >Just wondering what the wires on the motor are. The motor is a Dayton >Motor Shutter Model 2C904 115V 60Hz. > >Any info greatly appreciated.--- Go to: http://www.grainger.com and type 2C904 into the search box. -- JF
Reply by ●May 6, 20132013-05-06
> When you say the white wire was wrapped, is it wrapped with black tape?==20>=20 > If so it is probably a hot from the switch.Sorry, I should have been more precise. The white wire was not stripped, w= as not in a wire nut, and was coiled up whereas the other 2 wires were stra= ight (for lack of a better term). In other words, it looked like it wasn't= being used, or this was done to prevent a short or something, although I w= ould have thought having the dangling black and bare would be just as bad.
Reply by ●May 6, 20132013-05-06
On 5/5/2013 6:46 PM, telengard wrote:> Just recently purchased a house and it has a whole house fan. > Unfortunately, the folks who installed the A/C disconnected the > motorized louvers to get into the crawl space a couple months ago and > I'm not sure exactly how it was wired. In the crawl space there is a > black (which had a wire nut on it) and bare wire and a white wire > which looks like it was curled up to not use it (it is not stripped). > The motor on the louvers has 2 black wires and a green wire. > Unfortunately, I could not find any documentation on the motor. We > have 2 separate switches so the louvers are independently controlled. > > Just wondering what the wires on the motor are. The motor is a Dayton > Motor Shutter Model 2C904 115V 60Hz. > > Any info greatly appreciated. > extiFirst I'd like to say, I had a home with a whole house fan, and it was great on those summer nights in Michigan. Just crack the windows in the room about 4" and turn on the fan. Great breeze comes through. There may be a reason it is disconnected ( doesn't work?). I would first verify operation of the louver controller. I have enough extension cords around that I would just wire a cord to it and plug it in. If it opens, unplug it and see if it closes. If it works, I would then follow the wiring from the motor and see if there is a parallel wiring connection that could be connected to the louver controller. Here is a link that gave me the little I know about electric louvers. Please get your own understanding, before attempting repair. (istr, my louvers were opened by the draft that came through) From what I read, the louver controller opens with power on and closes when power is removed. The second link refers to the replacement model that Grainger recommends for your unit.> http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CGAQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.captiveaire.com%2FMANUALS%2FMAKEUPAIR%2FSUPPLYFANTRAINING%2FAWV%2FDamper%2520Motor%2520Installation%2520Instructions.pdf&ei=6MaHUdSFE4f09gSi54HYDw&usg=AFQjCNGdNM-SJGseowbcLXueCYuzJlv05Q&sig2=dlsAN3pdeP1yRQ-Xip_Rzw&bvm=bv.45960087,d.eWU&cad=rjahttp://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CGAQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.captiveaire.com%2FMANUALS%2FMAKEUPAIR%2FSUPPLYFANTRAINING%2FAWV%2FDamper%2520Motor%2520Installation%2520Instructions.pdf&ei=6MaHUdSFE4f09gSi54HYDw&usg=AFQjCNGdNM-SJGseowbcLXueCYuzJlv05Q&sig2=dlsAN3pdeP1yRQ-Xip_Rzw&bvm=bv.45960087,d.eWU&cad=rja> http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CGUQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.charleysgreenhouse.com%2Flearn_more%2Fpdf%2FC3259_Shutter_Motor_Manual.pdf&ei=6MaHUdSFE4f09gSi54HYDw&usg=AFQjCNGWafTifnKroTJdG9932mXFd_Hqxg&sig2=ntWF2coocobBbvKJXyNgSw&bvm=bv.45960087,d.eWUhttp://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CGUQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.charleysgreenhouse.com%2Flearn_more%2Fpdf%2FC3259_Shutter_Motor_Manual.pdf&ei=6MaHUdSFE4f09gSi54HYDw&usg=AFQjCNGWafTifnKroTJdG9932mXFd_Hqxg&sig2=ntWF2coocobBbvKJXyNgSw&bvm=bv.45960087,d.eWU
Reply by ●May 6, 20132013-05-06
Back again for some more abuse.
I'm building a 12V battery charger that will be controlled by a small
low-power microcontroller. I've not yet hooked up the
microcontroller, but most of the code is written and I'm trying to
finalize the charger electronics before I hook it up.
The circuit is very simple. An 18V 2A transformer, a bridge
rectifier, and filter capacitor feeds a main power rail. A 5V
regulator produces a few mA for the microcontroller, which I won't show
here. The charger is more or less as follows, though I will leave out
the resistor/divider taps which hook up to the ADC channels on the
micro.
+18VDC ---------------------------+
Q1 c e | D1 R1
-----\_/--------->|----\/\/\--------+12(batt)
b| |
+------+ |
| | +--+----------+
/ Q2 e\_/c |
R1 \ |b |
/ | e |c Q3
\ +--\/\/\------\_/
| R2 |b
| | R3 SW1
LED1 \_/ +--\/\/\-- \-- +5V
---
|
|
GND --------------+------------------------------------ GND(batt)
Q1 - MJE3055
D1 - 1N4004
R1 - .5 5W
Q2 - BC557
R2 - 200K
Q3 - 2N2222
R3 - 1K
The microcontroller will strobe R3 with PCM at about 488HZ with a duty
cycle dependant on the charge profile. R1 is the sense resistor and
permits measuring instantaneous charge current. I've got the battery
attached and can watch the voltage rise (and settle) as I manually
engage a switch attached as shown. The battery voltage as it came
from Wallmart was about 12.7V. Charge current with this circuit
is 1.4A at this point in its charge cycle. The heat-sink gets rather
warm, but it isn't all that big and I'm going to target 3 or 4A as the
peak charge current so I'll probably substitute a TO-3 package with a
much beefier heat-sink when I put the project in an enclosure.
So far, so good. The output of Q1 shows .6V ripple. Attaching my
scope to the base of Q1 shows an idle (SW off) voltage of 16mV and a
120Hz signal with a 70mVpp with a duty cycle of 17%. I'm not exactly
sure where this signal is coming from, although its frequency suggests
a causal relationship with the AC mains. There does not appear to be
any ripple on the 5V rail, but my scope isn't good enough to really
zoom in on it.
The other side of the coin is that the Q2/Q3 network seems to be
rather sensitive. When I pass my hand over the breadboard the
distortion described above doubles and I can get an amplitude of 1V on
that distortion by standing up suddenly while sitting in front of the
idle circuit. It is difficult to say what is happening because I can
double the distortion by attaching the scope to a wall-wart USB
charger, and I know I haven't yet calibrated the scope all that well
either. (Scope shows 4.5V from the 5V regulator.) But the fact
that I can affect the circuit just by moving things in the general
vicinity is, um, rather shocking.
Besides installing the circuit in a metal case, are there any easy
solutions to fix that 16mV idle voltage? Should I just change the
BC557 to a 2n2222 and work out how many of what kind of resistors I
need to supply the 3055 with the mA it needs to dump several amps into
the battery? I like this version because it is easy to set up and has
a low part count, but I'd really like to get rid of the noise and the
sensitivity to movement.
Regards,
Uncle Steve
--
There should be a special word in the English language to identify
people who create problems and then turn around and offer up their own
tailor-made bogus non-solutions designed to completely avoid the root
causes of the situation under consideration. 'Traitor' might be a
good choice, but lacks the requisite specificity. One of the problems
with contemporary English is it lacks many such words that would
otherwise categorically identify certain kinds of person, place, or
thing -- making it difficult or impossible to think analytically about
such objects. These shortcomings of the English lexicon are
representative of Orwellian linguistics at work in the real world.
Reply by ●May 6, 20132013-05-06
On Mon, 06 May 2013 10:44:11 -0500, amdx <amdx@knology.net> wrote:>On 5/5/2013 6:46 PM, telengard wrote: >> Just recently purchased a house and it has a whole house fan. >> Unfortunately, the folks who installed the A/C disconnected the >> motorized louvers to get into the crawl space a couple months ago and >> I'm not sure exactly how it was wired. In the crawl space there is a >> black (which had a wire nut on it) and bare wire and a white wire >> which looks like it was curled up to not use it (it is not stripped). >> The motor on the louvers has 2 black wires and a green wire. >> Unfortunately, I could not find any documentation on the motor. We >> have 2 separate switches so the louvers are independently controlled. >> >> Just wondering what the wires on the motor are. The motor is a Dayton >> Motor Shutter Model 2C904 115V 60Hz. >> >> Any info greatly appreciated. >> exti > > First I'd like to say, I had a home with a whole house fan, and it was >great on those summer nights in Michigan. Just crack the windows in the >room about 4" and turn on the fan. Great breeze comes through. > > There may be a reason it is disconnected ( doesn't work?). I would >first verify operation of the louver controller. I have enough extension >cords around that I would just wire a cord to it and plug it in. If it >opens, unplug it and see if it closes. > If it works, I would then follow the wiring from the motor and see if >there is a parallel wiring connection that could be connected to the >louver controller. > Here is a link that gave me the little I know about electric louvers. > >Please get your own understanding, before attempting repair. > >(istr, my louvers were opened by the draft that came through)Yep, Some powered louvers I've seen sense air pressure and open.> From what I read, the louver controller opens with power on and closes >when power is removed. > The second link refers to the replacement model that Grainger >recommends for your unit. > >> http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CGAQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.captiveaire.com%2FMANUALS%2FMAKEUPAIR%2FSUPPLYFANTRAINING%2FAWV%2FDamper%2520Motor%2520Installation%2520Instructions.pdf&ei=6MaHUdSFE4f09gSi54HYDw&usg=AFQjCNGdNM-SJGseowbcLXueCYuzJlv05Q&sig2=dlsAN3pdeP1yRQ-Xip_Rzw&bvm=bv.45960087,d.eWU&cad=rja > >http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CGAQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.captiveaire.com%2FMANUALS%2FMAKEUPAIR%2FSUPPLYFANTRAINING%2FAWV%2FDamper%2520Motor%2520Installation%2520Instructions.pdf&ei=6MaHUdSFE4f09gSi54HYDw&usg=AFQjCNGdNM-SJGseowbcLXueCYuzJlv05Q&sig2=dlsAN3pdeP1yRQ-Xip_Rzw&bvm=bv.45960087,d.eWU&cad=rja > >> http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CGUQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.charleysgreenhouse.com%2Flearn_more%2Fpdf%2FC3259_Shutter_Motor_Manual.pdf&ei=6MaHUdSFE4f09gSi54HYDw&usg=AFQjCNGWafTifnKroTJdG9932mXFd_Hqxg&sig2=ntWF2coocobBbvKJXyNgSw&bvm=bv.45960087,d.eWU > >http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CGUQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.charleysgreenhouse.com%2Flearn_more%2Fpdf%2FC3259_Shutter_Motor_Manual.pdf&ei=6MaHUdSFE4f09gSi54HYDw&usg=AFQjCNGWafTifnKroTJdG9932mXFd_Hqxg&sig2=ntWF2coocobBbvKJXyNgSw&bvm=bv.45960087,d.eWU >...Jim Thompson -- | James E.Thompson | mens | | Analog Innovations | et | | Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus | | Phoenix, Arizona 85048 Skype: Contacts Only | | | Voice:(480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat | | E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 | I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
Reply by ●May 6, 20132013-05-06
On Mon, May 06, 2013 at 12:01:44PM -0400, Uncle Steve wrote:> +18VDC ---------------------------+ > Q1 c e | D1 R1 > -----\_/--------->|----\/\/\--------+12(batt) > b| | > +------+ | > | | +--+----------+ > / Q2 e\_/c | > R1 \ |b | > / | e |c Q3Ah, sorry. R1 immediately above is 2.2K and it's the other R1 that is .5 ohms. Regards, Uncle Steve -- There should be a special word in the English language to identify people who create problems and then turn around and offer up their own tailor-made bogus non-solutions designed to completely avoid the root causes of the situation under consideration. 'Traitor' might be a good choice, but lacks the requisite specificity. One of the problems with contemporary English is it lacks many such words that would otherwise categorically identify certain kinds of person, place, or thing -- making it difficult or impossible to think analytically about such objects. These shortcomings of the English lexicon are representative of Orwellian linguistics at work in the real world.
