On Monday, December 27, 2021 at 7:11:48 PM UTC-5, Rich S wrote:
> On Monday, December 27, 2021 at 11:56:18 PM UTC, Sylvia Else wrote: 
> > On 28-Dec-21 1:33 am, legg wrote: 
> > > On Mon, 27 Dec 2021 19:35:08 +1100, Sylvia Else <syl...@email.invalid> 
> > > wrote: 
> > > 
> > >> On 27-Dec-21 7:12 pm, Rich S wrote: 
> > >>> On Sunday, December 26, 2021 at 2:13:33 AM UTC, Sylvia Else wrote: 
> > >>>> On 25-Dec-21 10:17 pm, Sylvia Else wrote: 
> > >>>>> My kitchen's electric oven is misbehaving. After it's been on for a 
> > >>>>> while, it can make a buzzing noise, and its LCD (?) flickers. Eventually 
> > >>>>> it shuts off, resets itself, and restarts with a "Program Cancelled" 
> > >>>>> message. 
> > >>>>> 
> > >>>>> Clearly, its microcontroller knows that it was previously running. This 
> > >>>>> is not like a power-on reset. 
> > >>>>> 
> > >>>>> The buzzing sounds a bit like a relay that's receiving so little coil 
> > >>>>> current that voltage ripple makes it buzz. I've come across that before, 
> > >>>>> and this thing contains several relays. 
> > >>>>> 
> > >>>>> The obvious thought is dying electrolytic capacitors, but failing when 
> > >>>>> it's got warm doesn't fit my understanding of such capacitors which 
> > >>>>> would be expected to perform better when warm, even if they've aged to 
> > >>>>> the point where they're no longer adequate. 
> > >>>>> 
> > >>>>> Any thoughts? 
> > >>>>> 
> > >>>>> Sylvia. 
> > >>>> Thanks for the replies. 
> > >>>> 
> > >>>> My diagnosis is a burnt-out fan motor. This fan is meant to keep the 
> > >>>> electronics cool. 
> > >>>> 
> > >>>> Sylvia. 
> > >>> 
> > >>> Ah, so you've determined that the fan was the cause? 
> > >> 
> > >> "determined that it was the cause" is perhaps over stating it, but the 
> > >> fan is clearly broken, and without it the electronics bay was heating 
> > >> up. Jasen's suggestion that a regulator would go into thermal limiting 
> > >> is then entirely plausible. 
> > >> 
> > >> It would also explain why I could never reproduce the issue with the 
> > >> cover off - the extra ventilation was keeping the temperature down. 
> > >> 
> > >> I'm left wondering whether I previously just failed to notice the fan 
> > >> wasn't running, or whether the fault was somehow intermittent. I'll 
> > >> probably never know now. 
> > >> 
> > >>> I take it this is an "in wall" unit, not a free-standing oven 
> > >>> (= "range" in the U.S., with stove top). Being an in-wall 
> > >>> type makes sense to me it needs a cooling fan. The 
> > >>> "range" types put all the electronics in separate housing 
> > >>> away from the heat. 
> > >> 
> > >> Yes. 
> > >> 
> > >> Sylvia. 
> > > 
> > > They're 'usually' pretty quiet and hidden. though 
> > > they might get noisier before seizing up. 
> > > 
> > > If the coil's not actually fused open, it just needs a 
> > > bit of cleaning. 
> > > 
> > > RL 
> > It's a three-speed shaded-pole motor. Only the highest speed contact has 
> > continuity with common. The other two are neither connected to common, 
> > nor to each other. The wire to the lowest speed contact has vapourised, 
> > leaving a black residue. 
> > 
> > It's not clear why that would leave the medium speed contact isolated. 
> > 
> > Sylvia.
> OK so it's an AC line-powered fan. 
> If it has several wires (for High, Medium and Low-speed) 
> (plus the common) then it could be a capacitor-coupled 
> speed control. Sometimes the capacitor fails and the 
> armature is fine. Of course repairing this may not be 
> any more appealing than just replacing the whole 
> fan unit :-) Cheers, RS

Ahhh, AC line powered fan - yep, check the fan capacitor.
J

On Saturday, December 25, 2021 at 6:17:56 AM UTC-5, Sylvia Else wrote:
> My kitchen's electric oven is misbehaving. After it's been on for a 
> while, it can make a buzzing noise, and its LCD (?) flickers. Eventually 
> it shuts off, resets itself, and restarts with a "Program Cancelled" 
> message. 
> 
> Clearly, its microcontroller knows that it was previously running. This 
> is not like a power-on reset. 
> 
> The buzzing sounds a bit like a relay that's receiving so little coil 
> current that voltage ripple makes it buzz. I've come across that before, 
> and this thing contains several relays. 
> 
> The obvious thought is dying electrolytic capacitors, but failing when 
> it's got warm doesn't fit my understanding of such capacitors which 
> would be expected to perform better when warm, even if they've aged to 
> the point where they're no longer adequate. 
> 
> Any thoughts? 
> 
> Sylvia.
As others have pointed out, I'd also go with bad caps.  I'd also hit most if not all of the solder joints with a soldering iron.  In my limited experience with dealing with a Maytag electric range and a GE electric range, reflowing the solder joints fixed the problem.  
good luck
J

On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 18:14:33 -0700, Don Y
<blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

>On 12/28/2021 6:05 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
>> On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 17:43:51 -0700, Don Y
>> <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
>> 
>>> On 12/28/2021 4:45 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
>>>> On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 15:51:07 -0700, Don Y
>>>> <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 12/28/2021 3:32 PM, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
>>>>>> On Mon, 27 Dec 2021 22:16:58 -0700, Don Y
>>>>>> <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It wouldn't be uncommon to find a spare part for a major appliance
>>>>>>> at 20+ years, here.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Did you know there's a couple little pieces of plastic at the bottom
>>>>>> door hinge in Kenmore fridges that makes the door close the last few
>>>>>> inches?  It wears out and becomes smooth and the door has a tendency
>>>>>> to stay open a bit more than the magnetic seal can grab.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Easily available as a repair item from the parts suppliers, kind of
>>>>>> stupid expensive ($20 US or so) but not the sort of thing that's
>>>>>> easily 3D printed or otherwise.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71j2XGi1wjS._AC_SL1500_.jpg
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I think ours is 20+ now. Ice maker still works, no issues.
>>>>>
>>>>> Our frig is on rollers.  They are made of plastic and develop flat spots,
>>>>> cracks, etc.  Insanely expensive (for a simple cylinder of plastic
>>>>> with a hole bored through the axis).  But, without them, moving the
>>>>> frig is a PITA (as it would scratch the surface of the floor tile).
>>>>>
>>>>> Big markets tend to encourage the availability of spares.  Even if
>>>>> the OEM stops supplying them, someone will often step in and
>>>>> provide a drop-in alternative.
>>>>>
>>>>> John Robertson (?) can attest to the viability of *developing* drop-in
>>>>> replacement parts for his target market.  Despite appearing a niche,
>>>>> it is obviously big enough to justify his efforts!
>>>>
>>>> Have a lathe or know someone that does?  Make replacement rollers out
>>>> of Delrin (generic name is acetal).
>>>>
>>>> Here are some casters - maybe one will just fit
>>>>
>>>> .<https://www.mcmaster.com/casters/>
>>>>
>>>> Here is where to get small quantities of the material:
>>>>
>>>> .<https://www.mcmaster.com/raw-materials/plastic/wear-resistant-easy-to-machine-acetal-rods-and-discs/>
>>>>
>>>> Very easy to machine.
>>>
>>> My first thought (back then) was to *print* some.  Simple, relatively small,
>>> etc.
>>>
>>> But, gave up on that when I considered how unlikely it might be to get
>>> one that "rolled" well.  (if it got stuck, then it would defeat the
>>> purpose if it became a *skid* to drag the frig across the floor).
>>>
>>> Then, considered cutting a 1.5" wide slice out of one of my solid
>>> dowel rolling pins.  But, a waste of a nice rolling pin!
>>>
>>> Then, thought of a local metal supplier who has a "scrap" room
>>> where material is sold by the pound at a discounted rate.  Look
>>> for a short length of aluminum (or -- ick -- CRS) dowel and have
>>> *them* cut it into slices for me -- so I just have to drill the
>>> center.  But, that's a half hour drive, each way, plus waiting for
>>> the cuts, etc.
>>>
>>> Finally conceded to just ordering the parts from a local appliance
>>> parts supplier and letting them deliver them to me (to save the
>>> 40 minute round trip to pick them up).
>>>
>>> Sometimes, just because you *can* do something doesn't mean you
>>> really *should*!  Price might be outrageous -- considering what the
>>> item *is* -- but time has value, as well.
>> 
>> If you can just buy them, that will certainly be fastest and cheapest.
>
>Yes, but there's always some little voice that says, "$10?  You've got to
>be kidding me!  I can MAKE something for a fraction of that!"
>
>One must learn to ignore that voice!  :>
>
>> If the intent is instead to improve it (stop the flat spots), them
>> making your own may make sense.  But cutoffs from a raw material
>> supplier will not be accurately cut enough to just drill a hole and
>> call it good.  A machine tool is needed.
>
>You don't care if the top and bottom of the "cylinder" are normal to
>the axis as that dimension is unconstrained when mounted in the
>bracket.
>
>What's important is to hit the center of the cylinder with the
>drill (and not rely on "sitting" the cylinder on a surface to
>keep the hole centered).  A clamp on a V-block (in a drill press)
>will do the trick for something as soft as aluminum (coupled with
>one or more pilots)

The V-block approach assumes that the raw stock is an accurate
cylinder; this is not usually true.

And then, how do you find the exact center, and get the drill to go
straight and exactly where needed?  It's not as simple as it looks.

Assuming that it is supposed to roll reasonably well, and to stay
where put, versus always rolling back to the smallest-radius spot.


>[Lathe would be nice but complicates the effort]

Nahh.  One can also do it using old-time methods, but this is very
slow to get it right.  With a metalworking lathe, it's quite easy.

In other words, if it were simple to do what a lathe does using only
hand tools and maybe a drill press, nobody would bother with lathes.
And yet lathes are ubiquitous.

Joe Gwinn

On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 17:10:45 -0800 (PST), Rick C
<gnuarm.deletethisbit@gmail.com> wrote:


>
>A friends door has a loud click when opening and closing the door that sounds like it comes from the lower hinge.  I'm thinking this piece is turning rather than doing it's job.  
>I would offer to work on it, but it would require emptying the door, then taking the door off the hinges and only then being sure as to what part to order.  


The nameplate in ours is visible with the door open (right near the
lamp). I just googled the model number and found the part online.
Verified it was available from a local shop (AMRE*) and picked it up
(Amazon would have worked too).  A few minutes to empty the door into
a cardboard box (didn't even bother putting the stuff on the deck to
keep it cold) and maybe 5 minutes to replace the parts. 

The freezer side is more trouble - you have to remove the water feed
line and an electrical connector to get the door off- but that side
gets opened at 1/10 the frequency and the door is lighter so I think
it will outlast the fridge. So I didn't bother. 

* I suspect pros get a huge discount on their 'retail' prices but
whatev. 

>PITA  It probably doesn't even bother her.  I wonder if it will end up breaking something else if not fixed. 
>
>Why do you say the bottom hinge?  Wouldn't it need to be on both hinges so the entire door will raise or lower?  

Because it *is* only on the bottom hinge. One part attached to the
door and the other attached to the hinge (just two flat-ish pieces
with the raised cam action). If you raise the lower hinge the upper
one definitely moves too since the door is rigid, and only one is
really going to do anything, the other just slides. 
-- 
Best regards, 
Spehro Pefhany

On Tuesday, December 28, 2021 at 5:51:24 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
> On 12/28/2021 3:32 PM, Spehro Pefhany wrote: 
> > On Mon, 27 Dec 2021 22:16:58 -0700, Don Y 
> > <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote: 
> > 
> >> 
> >> It wouldn't be uncommon to find a spare part for a major appliance 
> >> at 20+ years, here. 
> > 
> > Did you know there's a couple little pieces of plastic at the bottom 
> > door hinge in Kenmore fridges that makes the door close the last few 
> > inches? It wears out and becomes smooth and the door has a tendency 
> > to stay open a bit more than the magnetic seal can grab. 
> > 
> > Easily available as a repair item from the parts suppliers, kind of 
> > stupid expensive ($20 US or so) but not the sort of thing that's 
> > easily 3D printed or otherwise. 
> > 
> > https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71j2XGi1wjS._AC_SL1500_.jpg 
> > 
> > I think ours is 20+ now. Ice maker still works, no issues.
> Our frig is on rollers. They are made of plastic and develop flat spots, 
> cracks, etc. Insanely expensive (for a simple cylinder of plastic 
> with a hole bored through the axis). But, without them, moving the 
> frig is a PITA (as it would scratch the surface of the floor tile). 
> 
> Big markets tend to encourage the availability of spares. Even if 
> the OEM stops supplying them, someone will often step in and 
> provide a drop-in alternative. 
> 
> John Robertson (?) can attest to the viability of *developing* drop-in 
> replacement parts for his target market. Despite appearing a niche, 
> it is obviously big enough to justify his efforts!

I bought dogs off ebay to repair a friends washer once.  When they arrived they were pure crap with no definition on the teeth.  It was like the thing had been heated and all the edges melted.  So I took the dogs off my washer and put on her machine and had to get new ones for mine.  They were certainly cheap enough $5 including shipping, but I suppose not much inspection going on in China. 

-- 

Rick C.

+ Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging
+ Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209

On 12/28/2021 6:05 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
> On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 17:43:51 -0700, Don Y
> <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
> 
>> On 12/28/2021 4:45 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
>>> On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 15:51:07 -0700, Don Y
>>> <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 12/28/2021 3:32 PM, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
>>>>> On Mon, 27 Dec 2021 22:16:58 -0700, Don Y
>>>>> <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It wouldn't be uncommon to find a spare part for a major appliance
>>>>>> at 20+ years, here.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did you know there's a couple little pieces of plastic at the bottom
>>>>> door hinge in Kenmore fridges that makes the door close the last few
>>>>> inches?  It wears out and becomes smooth and the door has a tendency
>>>>> to stay open a bit more than the magnetic seal can grab.
>>>>>
>>>>> Easily available as a repair item from the parts suppliers, kind of
>>>>> stupid expensive ($20 US or so) but not the sort of thing that's
>>>>> easily 3D printed or otherwise.
>>>>>
>>>>> https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71j2XGi1wjS._AC_SL1500_.jpg
>>>>>
>>>>> I think ours is 20+ now. Ice maker still works, no issues.
>>>>
>>>> Our frig is on rollers.  They are made of plastic and develop flat spots,
>>>> cracks, etc.  Insanely expensive (for a simple cylinder of plastic
>>>> with a hole bored through the axis).  But, without them, moving the
>>>> frig is a PITA (as it would scratch the surface of the floor tile).
>>>>
>>>> Big markets tend to encourage the availability of spares.  Even if
>>>> the OEM stops supplying them, someone will often step in and
>>>> provide a drop-in alternative.
>>>>
>>>> John Robertson (?) can attest to the viability of *developing* drop-in
>>>> replacement parts for his target market.  Despite appearing a niche,
>>>> it is obviously big enough to justify his efforts!
>>>
>>> Have a lathe or know someone that does?  Make replacement rollers out
>>> of Delrin (generic name is acetal).
>>>
>>> Here are some casters - maybe one will just fit
>>>
>>> .<https://www.mcmaster.com/casters/>
>>>
>>> Here is where to get small quantities of the material:
>>>
>>> .<https://www.mcmaster.com/raw-materials/plastic/wear-resistant-easy-to-machine-acetal-rods-and-discs/>
>>>
>>> Very easy to machine.
>>
>> My first thought (back then) was to *print* some.  Simple, relatively small,
>> etc.
>>
>> But, gave up on that when I considered how unlikely it might be to get
>> one that "rolled" well.  (if it got stuck, then it would defeat the
>> purpose if it became a *skid* to drag the frig across the floor).
>>
>> Then, considered cutting a 1.5" wide slice out of one of my solid
>> dowel rolling pins.  But, a waste of a nice rolling pin!
>>
>> Then, thought of a local metal supplier who has a "scrap" room
>> where material is sold by the pound at a discounted rate.  Look
>> for a short length of aluminum (or -- ick -- CRS) dowel and have
>> *them* cut it into slices for me -- so I just have to drill the
>> center.  But, that's a half hour drive, each way, plus waiting for
>> the cuts, etc.
>>
>> Finally conceded to just ordering the parts from a local appliance
>> parts supplier and letting them deliver them to me (to save the
>> 40 minute round trip to pick them up).
>>
>> Sometimes, just because you *can* do something doesn't mean you
>> really *should*!  Price might be outrageous -- considering what the
>> item *is* -- but time has value, as well.
> 
> If you can just buy them, that will certainly be fastest and cheapest.

Yes, but there's always some little voice that says, "$10?  You've got to
be kidding me!  I can MAKE something for a fraction of that!"

One must learn to ignore that voice!  :>

> If the intent is instead to improve it (stop the flat spots), them
> making your own may make sense.  But cutoffs from a raw material
> supplier will not be accurately cut enough to just drill a hole and
> call it good.  A machine tool is needed.

You don't care if the top and bottom of the "cylinder" are normal to
the axis as that dimension is unconstrained when mounted in the
bracket.

What's important is to hit the center of the cylinder with the
drill (and not rely on "sitting" the cylinder on a surface to
keep the hole centered).  A clamp on a V-block (in a drill press)
will do the trick for something as soft as aluminum (coupled with
one or more pilots)

[Lathe would be nice but complicates the effort]

On Tuesday, December 28, 2021 at 5:32:27 PM UTC-5, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
> On Mon, 27 Dec 2021 22:16:58 -0700, Don Y 
> <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote: 
> 
> > 
> >It wouldn't be uncommon to find a spare part for a major appliance 
> >at 20+ years, here.
> Did you know there's a couple little pieces of plastic at the bottom 
> door hinge in Kenmore fridges that makes the door close the last few 
> inches? It wears out and becomes smooth and the door has a tendency 
> to stay open a bit more than the magnetic seal can grab. 
> 
> Easily available as a repair item from the parts suppliers, kind of 
> stupid expensive ($20 US or so) but not the sort of thing that's 
> easily 3D printed or otherwise. 
> 
> https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71j2XGi1wjS._AC_SL1500_.jpg 
> 
> I think ours is 20+ now. Ice maker still works, no issues.

A friends door has a loud click when opening and closing the door that sounds like it comes from the lower hinge.  I'm thinking this piece is turning rather than doing it's job.  I would offer to work on it, but it would require emptying the door, then taking the door off the hinges and only then being sure as to what part to order.  PITA  It probably doesn't even bother her.  I wonder if it will end up breaking something else if not fixed. 

Why do you say the bottom hinge?  Wouldn't it need to be on both hinges so the entire door will raise or lower?  

-- 

Rick C.

- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging
- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209

On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 17:43:51 -0700, Don Y
<blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

>On 12/28/2021 4:45 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
>> On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 15:51:07 -0700, Don Y
>> <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
>> 
>>> On 12/28/2021 3:32 PM, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
>>>> On Mon, 27 Dec 2021 22:16:58 -0700, Don Y
>>>> <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> It wouldn't be uncommon to find a spare part for a major appliance
>>>>> at 20+ years, here.
>>>>
>>>> Did you know there's a couple little pieces of plastic at the bottom
>>>> door hinge in Kenmore fridges that makes the door close the last few
>>>> inches?  It wears out and becomes smooth and the door has a tendency
>>>> to stay open a bit more than the magnetic seal can grab.
>>>>
>>>> Easily available as a repair item from the parts suppliers, kind of
>>>> stupid expensive ($20 US or so) but not the sort of thing that's
>>>> easily 3D printed or otherwise.
>>>>
>>>> https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71j2XGi1wjS._AC_SL1500_.jpg
>>>>
>>>> I think ours is 20+ now. Ice maker still works, no issues.
>>>
>>> Our frig is on rollers.  They are made of plastic and develop flat spots,
>>> cracks, etc.  Insanely expensive (for a simple cylinder of plastic
>>> with a hole bored through the axis).  But, without them, moving the
>>> frig is a PITA (as it would scratch the surface of the floor tile).
>>>
>>> Big markets tend to encourage the availability of spares.  Even if
>>> the OEM stops supplying them, someone will often step in and
>>> provide a drop-in alternative.
>>>
>>> John Robertson (?) can attest to the viability of *developing* drop-in
>>> replacement parts for his target market.  Despite appearing a niche,
>>> it is obviously big enough to justify his efforts!
>> 
>> Have a lathe or know someone that does?  Make replacement rollers out
>> of Delrin (generic name is acetal).
>> 
>> Here are some casters - maybe one will just fit
>> 
>> .<https://www.mcmaster.com/casters/>
>> 
>> Here is where to get small quantities of the material:
>> 
>> .<https://www.mcmaster.com/raw-materials/plastic/wear-resistant-easy-to-machine-acetal-rods-and-discs/>
>> 
>> Very easy to machine.
>
>My first thought (back then) was to *print* some.  Simple, relatively small,
>etc.
>
>But, gave up on that when I considered how unlikely it might be to get
>one that "rolled" well.  (if it got stuck, then it would defeat the
>purpose if it became a *skid* to drag the frig across the floor).
>
>Then, considered cutting a 1.5" wide slice out of one of my solid
>dowel rolling pins.  But, a waste of a nice rolling pin!
>
>Then, thought of a local metal supplier who has a "scrap" room
>where material is sold by the pound at a discounted rate.  Look
>for a short length of aluminum (or -- ick -- CRS) dowel and have
>*them* cut it into slices for me -- so I just have to drill the
>center.  But, that's a half hour drive, each way, plus waiting for
>the cuts, etc.
>
>Finally conceded to just ordering the parts from a local appliance
>parts supplier and letting them deliver them to me (to save the
>40 minute round trip to pick them up).
>
>Sometimes, just because you *can* do something doesn't mean you
>really *should*!  Price might be outrageous -- considering what the
>item *is* -- but time has value, as well.

If you can just buy them, that will certainly be fastest and cheapest.

If the intent is instead to improve it (stop the flat spots), them
making your own may make sense.  But cutoffs from a raw material
supplier will not be accurately cut enough to just drill a hole and
call it good.  A machine tool is needed.

Joe Gwinn

On 12/28/2021 4:45 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
> On Tue, 28 Dec 2021 15:51:07 -0700, Don Y
> <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
> 
>> On 12/28/2021 3:32 PM, Spehro Pefhany wrote:
>>> On Mon, 27 Dec 2021 22:16:58 -0700, Don Y
>>> <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> It wouldn't be uncommon to find a spare part for a major appliance
>>>> at 20+ years, here.
>>>
>>> Did you know there's a couple little pieces of plastic at the bottom
>>> door hinge in Kenmore fridges that makes the door close the last few
>>> inches?  It wears out and becomes smooth and the door has a tendency
>>> to stay open a bit more than the magnetic seal can grab.
>>>
>>> Easily available as a repair item from the parts suppliers, kind of
>>> stupid expensive ($20 US or so) but not the sort of thing that's
>>> easily 3D printed or otherwise.
>>>
>>> https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71j2XGi1wjS._AC_SL1500_.jpg
>>>
>>> I think ours is 20+ now. Ice maker still works, no issues.
>>
>> Our frig is on rollers.  They are made of plastic and develop flat spots,
>> cracks, etc.  Insanely expensive (for a simple cylinder of plastic
>> with a hole bored through the axis).  But, without them, moving the
>> frig is a PITA (as it would scratch the surface of the floor tile).
>>
>> Big markets tend to encourage the availability of spares.  Even if
>> the OEM stops supplying them, someone will often step in and
>> provide a drop-in alternative.
>>
>> John Robertson (?) can attest to the viability of *developing* drop-in
>> replacement parts for his target market.  Despite appearing a niche,
>> it is obviously big enough to justify his efforts!
> 
> Have a lathe or know someone that does?  Make replacement rollers out
> of Delrin (generic name is acetal).
> 
> Here are some casters - maybe one will just fit
> 
> .<https://www.mcmaster.com/casters/>
> 
> Here is where to get small quantities of the material:
> 
> .<https://www.mcmaster.com/raw-materials/plastic/wear-resistant-easy-to-machine-acetal-rods-and-discs/>
> 
> Very easy to machine.

My first thought (back then) was to *print* some.  Simple, relatively small,
etc.

But, gave up on that when I considered how unlikely it might be to get
one that "rolled" well.  (if it got stuck, then it would defeat the
purpose if it became a *skid* to drag the frig across the floor).

Then, considered cutting a 1.5" wide slice out of one of my solid
dowel rolling pins.  But, a waste of a nice rolling pin!

Then, thought of a local metal supplier who has a "scrap" room
where material is sold by the pound at a discounted rate.  Look
for a short length of aluminum (or -- ick -- CRS) dowel and have
*them* cut it into slices for me -- so I just have to drill the
center.  But, that's a half hour drive, each way, plus waiting for
the cuts, etc.

Finally conceded to just ordering the parts from a local appliance
parts supplier and letting them deliver them to me (to save the
40 minute round trip to pick them up).

Sometimes, just because you *can* do something doesn't mean you
really *should*!  Price might be outrageous -- considering what the
item *is* -- but time has value, as well.

On 28/12/2021 3:11 pm, Sylvia Else wrote:
> On 28-Dec-21 3:30 pm, David Eather wrote:
>> On 27/12/2021 6:11 pm, Sylvia Else wrote:
>>> On 27-Dec-21 7:01 pm, David Eather wrote:
>>>> On 25/12/2021 9:17 pm, Sylvia Else wrote:
>>>>> My kitchen's electric oven is misbehaving. After it's been on for a 
>>>>> while, it can make a buzzing noise, and its LCD (?) flickers. 
>>>>> Eventually it shuts off, resets itself, and restarts with a 
>>>>> "Program Cancelled" message.
>>>>>
>>>>> Clearly, its microcontroller knows that it was previously running. 
>>>>> This is not like a power-on reset.
>>>>>
>>>>> The buzzing sounds a bit like a relay that's receiving so little 
>>>>> coil current that voltage ripple makes it buzz. I've come across 
>>>>> that before, and this thing contains several relays.
>>>>>
>>>>> The obvious thought is dying electrolytic capacitors, but failing 
>>>>> when it's got warm doesn't fit my understanding of such capacitors 
>>>>> which would be expected to perform better when warm, even if 
>>>>> they've aged to the point where they're no longer adequate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>>
>>>>> Sylvia.
>>>>
>>>> Call an authorized repairer. They will have seen the problem before 
>>>> and come with all parts required for repairs.
>>>>
>>>> Fast repair, no sweat.
>>>>
>>>> Also, even if you are eminently qualified to do such a repair, if an 
>>>> insurance company wants to fight paying out (say for example, your 
>>>> house burns down for some other reason) they may try to say the fire 
>>>> started with the oven and it was your fault because you were not 
>>>> authorized to do the repair and did not use authorized components. 
>>>> It does not happen often, but it does happen.
>>>>
>>>> We live in an age of compliance and legal liability not the past age 
>>>> of competence and ability -
>>>
>>> I live in Australia. Insurers don't get to pull that nonsense here.
>>>
>>> As for arriving with the required parts, they don't do component 
>>> level repair, and it's unlikely boards are still available for this 
>>> oven, which is probably more than 15 years old.
>>>
>>> Sylvia.
>>
>> The age thing is very valid.
>>
>> But, I also live in Australia. This is about 20 years ago: My bestie, 
>> a technician with a trade school qualification and a Associate Diploma 
>> in electrical engineering had an insurance assessor tried to pin a 
>> house fire on his repair of a TV. He had to jump up and down and make 
>> all sorts of noises to stop that, and the fire then went down as 
>> "unknown causes" so it didn't get to the insurance company, but if my 
>> mate wasn't there and didn't put up a vigorous defense it would have. 
>> You can judge yourself if the insurance company would have tried to 
>> reclaim it's payout. Much later it came out that a child who lived at 
>> the house had been playing with candles, did something silly and was 
>> scared to own up.
> 
> It ultimately depends on the terms and conditions of the insurance 
> contract, but I would be surprised if it would have made any difference 
> to the outcome if your bestie had in fact caused the fire by way of the 
> repair to his television. To avoid its liability the insurer would have 
> to show, on balance of probability, that it was the intent of your 
> bestie that the television catch fire.
> 
> It's somewhat analogous to insuring one's car against damage in a crash. 
> While some crashes arise with a genuine lack of fault on anyone's part 
> (sudden medical event, for example), most crashes are the result of a 
> driver doing something they shouldn't. Only the shonkiest of insurers 
> issue policies that only cover no-fault accidents.
> 
> As an aside, note that many car-hire contracts, including from some well 
> known car rental contracts, have terms that exclude liability for 
> accidents that result from a breach of the road rules, which puts those 
> into the same group as the shonkiest of insurers, and those rental 
> companies should be avoided by anyone who doesn't want to become bankrupt.
> 
> Sylvia.

not so. the insurer is not a court of law, they just need a suspicion to 
not payout and then you have to go to court and fight (and pay) to get 
your policy enforced and they will fight. your chance of winning is 
rather small especially since they drew up the contract.