Reply by Jasen Betts March 7, 20202020-03-07
On 2020-03-06, Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:
> In article <c1fd1d6a-920c-48d8-80a4-af35ff292a32@googlegroups.com>, > jfeng@my-deja.com says... >> >> > Thanks, but we don't do bux in the UK. >> >> It is also available on eBay. Some are Chinese sellers, so if they ship to the US, they probably also ship to the UK. >> >> Do you get PE (formerly Everyday Practical Electronics)? Available from your favourite bookshop for &pound;5. For the past few years, they have had a series of articles on how much they like the cheap electronics modules that are coming out of China; they may even have reviewed this tester. Also, the March 2020 issue has an article > on how to build your own Arduino-based graphical diode tester. >> >> Having said all that, I suggest that you rig up your own with a 9v battery and a 10K resistor (values not critical, and +/- 50% will work OK). Wire in series and apply to your diode (or two of the transistor leads) and measure the voltage across the DUT. This is simple enough that you will eventually learn what to expect and > why. After you have some e practice, try changing the resistor value and/or the battery voltage to see how that changes the answer. To me, the fancy test devices are like using the OBD when the check engine light comes on: the diagnostic may be meaningful to those with skills and experience, but can be gibberish to the > uninitiated. >> >> > > Here is one for 12.49 pounds or what ever that funny looking L is in the > UK. It is in a nice caes and has leads . You can get them for about 7 > pounds out of the case and probably no leads. > > > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-Rechargeable-IR-Decoder-TFT-Transistor- > Tester-Electronic-Component-LCR-TC1/274263027966? > hash=item3fdb59b0fe:g:G-sAAOSwsCdeQ83Q
Ha! That's a different sort of "Tube" circuit in the background. -- Jasen.
Reply by RobH March 6, 20202020-03-06
On 06/03/2020 15:29, Ralph Mowery wrote:
> In article <c1fd1d6a-920c-48d8-80a4-af35ff292a32@googlegroups.com>, > jfeng@my-deja.com says... >> >>> Thanks, but we don't do bux in the UK. >> >> It is also available on eBay. Some are Chinese sellers, so if they ship to the US, they probably also ship to the UK. >> >> Do you get PE (formerly Everyday Practical Electronics)? Available from your favourite bookshop for &#4294967295;5. For the past few years, they have had a series of articles on how much they like the cheap electronics modules that are coming out of China; they may even have reviewed this tester. Also, the March 2020 issue has an article > on how to build your own Arduino-based graphical diode tester. >> >> Having said all that, I suggest that you rig up your own with a 9v battery and a 10K resistor (values not critical, and +/- 50% will work OK). Wire in series and apply to your diode (or two of the transistor leads) and measure the voltage across the DUT. This is simple enough that you will eventually learn what to expect and > why. After you have some e practice, try changing the resistor value and/or the battery voltage to see how that changes the answer. To me, the fancy test devices are like using the OBD when the check engine light comes on: the diagnostic may be meaningful to those with skills and experience, but can be gibberish to the > uninitiated. >> >> > > Here is one for 12.49 pounds or what ever that funny looking L is in the > UK. It is in a nice caes and has leads . You can get them for about 7 > pounds out of the case and probably no leads. > > > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-Rechargeable-IR-Decoder-TFT-Transistor- > Tester-Electronic-Component-LCR-TC1/274263027966? > hash=item3fdb59b0fe:g:G-sAAOSwsCdeQ83Q > > They are mainly the same as the Peak testers that sell for around $ 100 > US. Not sure what that would be in Pounds or Euros. Probably somewhere > in the general price range. > > If one can not understand what these testers display, they should > probably not be messing with the electronics at the component level. > All you do is hook up any of the 3 leads to a device and look at the > screen. It will tell you what leads are connected and the value of the > component. > > That is a lot different than the car computers. They do not actually > test a specific component to see if it is good or bad or the parameters > of it. Just like the tire pressure sensor on some of the cars. The > warning light will come on,but not tell which tire or what the pressure > is or if the sensor is bad or not. Some cars do tell the pressure of > the individual tires, but will not tell if the shown pressure is > accurate or not. >
That same tester is &#4294967295;20.59 on Amazon uk with nearly 500 reviews. Thanks
Reply by Ralph Mowery March 6, 20202020-03-06
In article <c1fd1d6a-920c-48d8-80a4-af35ff292a32@googlegroups.com>, 
jfeng@my-deja.com says...
> > > Thanks, but we don't do bux in the UK. > > It is also available on eBay. Some are Chinese sellers, so if they ship to the US, they probably also ship to the UK. > > Do you get PE (formerly Everyday Practical Electronics)? Available from your favourite bookshop for &#4294967295;5. For the past few years, they have had a series of articles on how much they like the cheap electronics modules that are coming out of China; they may even have reviewed this tester. Also, the March 2020 issue has an article
on how to build your own Arduino-based graphical diode tester.
> > Having said all that, I suggest that you rig up your own with a 9v battery and a 10K resistor (values not critical, and +/- 50% will work OK). Wire in series and apply to your diode (or two of the transistor leads) and measure the voltage across the DUT. This is simple enough that you will eventually learn what to expect and
why. After you have some e practice, try changing the resistor value and/or the battery voltage to see how that changes the answer. To me, the fancy test devices are like using the OBD when the check engine light comes on: the diagnostic may be meaningful to those with skills and experience, but can be gibberish to the uninitiated.
> >
Here is one for 12.49 pounds or what ever that funny looking L is in the UK. It is in a nice caes and has leads . You can get them for about 7 pounds out of the case and probably no leads. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-Rechargeable-IR-Decoder-TFT-Transistor- Tester-Electronic-Component-LCR-TC1/274263027966? hash=item3fdb59b0fe:g:G-sAAOSwsCdeQ83Q They are mainly the same as the Peak testers that sell for around $ 100 US. Not sure what that would be in Pounds or Euros. Probably somewhere in the general price range. If one can not understand what these testers display, they should probably not be messing with the electronics at the component level. All you do is hook up any of the 3 leads to a device and look at the screen. It will tell you what leads are connected and the value of the component. That is a lot different than the car computers. They do not actually test a specific component to see if it is good or bad or the parameters of it. Just like the tire pressure sensor on some of the cars. The warning light will come on,but not tell which tire or what the pressure is or if the sensor is bad or not. Some cars do tell the pressure of the individual tires, but will not tell if the shown pressure is accurate or not.
Reply by jfen...@my-deja.com March 6, 20202020-03-06
On Friday, March 6, 2020 at 12:41:09 AM UTC-8, RobH wrote:
> On 06/03/2020 01:01, Bob Engelhardt wrote: > >=20 > > For 8 bux, one of these component testers would be good for your foolin=
g=20
> > around ... er ... experimenting: > > https://tinyurl.com/t4dbroz >=20 > Thanks, but we don't do bux in the UK.
It is also available on eBay. Some are Chinese sellers, so if they ship to= the US, they probably also ship to the UK. Do you get PE (formerly Everyday Practical Electronics)? Available from yo= ur favourite bookshop for =E2=82=A45. For the past few years, they have had= a series of articles on how much they like the cheap electronics modules t= hat are coming out of China; they may even have reviewed this tester. Also= , the March 2020 issue has an article on how to build your own Arduino-base= d graphical diode tester. Having said all that, I suggest that you rig up your own with a 9v battery = and a 10K resistor (values not critical, and +/- 50% will work OK). Wire i= n series and apply to your diode (or two of the transistor leads) and measu= re the voltage across the DUT. This is simple enough that you will eventua= lly learn what to expect and why. After you have some e practice, try chan= ging the resistor value and/or the battery voltage to see how that changes = the answer. To me, the fancy test devices are like using the OBD when the = check engine light comes on: the diagnostic may be meaningful to those with= skills and experience, but can be gibberish to the uninitiated.
Reply by RobH March 6, 20202020-03-06
On 06/03/2020 01:01, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
> > For 8 bux, one of these component testers would be good for your fooling > around ... er ... experimenting: > https://tinyurl.com/t4dbroz
Thanks, but we don't do bux in the UK.
Reply by Bob Engelhardt March 5, 20202020-03-05
For 8 bux, one of these component testers would be good for your fooling 
around ... er ... experimenting:
https://tinyurl.com/t4dbroz
Reply by RobH March 5, 20202020-03-05
On 05/03/2020 11:17, RobH wrote:
> On 05/03/2020 10:39, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote: >> On Thursday, 5 March 2020 09:34:30 UTC, RobH&nbsp; wrote: >>> On 05/03/2020 05:21, Jasen Betts wrote: >>>> On 2020-03-04, RobH <rob@despammer.com> wrote: >>>>> I have some BC547 transistors which I want to use in a circuit, but >>>>> according to this: >>>>> >>>>> Hook the positive lead from the multimeter to the to the EMITTER >>>>> (E) of >>>>> the transistor. Hook the negative meter lead to the BASE (B) of the >>>>> transistor. For an good NPN transistor, you should see &ldquo;OL&rdquo; (Over >>>>> Limit). If you are testing PNP transistor, the meter should show a >>>>> voltage drop between 0.45V and 0.9V. 4 May 2017 >>>> >>>>> None of the BC547's give the those readings, as I get 0.02V on a >>>>> few of >>>>> what I have, and not 0.45V. >>>> >>>> You must put your meter in diode-test mode, (on the fluke 77 it looks >>>> like that's also continuity beeper mode) it should say OL with the >>>> leads >>>> unconnected and 0.00V with them toucheing eaco other. then do the above >>>> measurements. >>>> >>>>> Are mine no good and should I bin them. I have had them for a >>>>> couple of >>>>> years or so now, and only used 1 of them. >>>> >>>> I'm guessing operator error, they should still be good after only a few >>>> years. >>>> >>> >>> >>> Putting the meter in diode-test mode,it reads OL when leads are >>> unconnected and 0.00v when touching each other. >>> Then connecting the positive to the Emitter and negative lead to the >>> Base the meter beeps, then reads 0.666, the same reading when the >>> positive is connected to the collector. >> >> that means the tr is dropping 0.666v as each junction conducts. Black >> lead is +ve on diode test so you have an npn tr behaving normally. >> >> >> NT >> > > Thanks, and by accident I found that the transistor is working correctly. > I have put together a IR circuit with transmiter led and and photo > diode, using x2 transistors and a 555. I couldn't get to work until a > wire from the ground rail of a breadboard touched a leg of a 220ohm > resistor. Then, for some unknown reason, it works in reverse!! > >
Update: The circuit works correctly now, as I swapped another transistor, and put in the wrong way round, Doh!
Reply by RobH March 5, 20202020-03-05
On 05/03/2020 10:39, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
> On Thursday, 5 March 2020 09:34:30 UTC, RobH wrote: >> On 05/03/2020 05:21, Jasen Betts wrote: >>> On 2020-03-04, RobH <rob@despammer.com> wrote: >>>> I have some BC547 transistors which I want to use in a circuit, but >>>> according to this: >>>> >>>> Hook the positive lead from the multimeter to the to the EMITTER (E) of >>>> the transistor. Hook the negative meter lead to the BASE (B) of the >>>> transistor. For an good NPN transistor, you should see &ldquo;OL&rdquo; (Over >>>> Limit). If you are testing PNP transistor, the meter should show a >>>> voltage drop between 0.45V and 0.9V. 4 May 2017 >>> >>>> None of the BC547's give the those readings, as I get 0.02V on a few of >>>> what I have, and not 0.45V. >>> >>> You must put your meter in diode-test mode, (on the fluke 77 it looks >>> like that's also continuity beeper mode) it should say OL with the leads >>> unconnected and 0.00V with them toucheing eaco other. then do the above >>> measurements. >>> >>>> Are mine no good and should I bin them. I have had them for a couple of >>>> years or so now, and only used 1 of them. >>> >>> I'm guessing operator error, they should still be good after only a few >>> years. >>> >> >> >> Putting the meter in diode-test mode,it reads OL when leads are >> unconnected and 0.00v when touching each other. >> Then connecting the positive to the Emitter and negative lead to the >> Base the meter beeps, then reads 0.666, the same reading when the >> positive is connected to the collector. > > that means the tr is dropping 0.666v as each junction conducts. Black lead is +ve on diode test so you have an npn tr behaving normally. > > > NT >
Thanks, and by accident I found that the transistor is working correctly. I have put together a IR circuit with transmiter led and and photo diode, using x2 transistors and a 555. I couldn't get to work until a wire from the ground rail of a breadboard touched a leg of a 220ohm resistor. Then, for some unknown reason, it works in reverse!!
Reply by March 5, 20202020-03-05
On Thursday, 5 March 2020 09:34:30 UTC, RobH  wrote:
> On 05/03/2020 05:21, Jasen Betts wrote: > > On 2020-03-04, RobH <rob@despammer.com> wrote: > >> I have some BC547 transistors which I want to use in a circuit, but > >> according to this: > >> > >> Hook the positive lead from the multimeter to the to the EMITTER (E) of > >> the transistor. Hook the negative meter lead to the BASE (B) of the > >> transistor. For an good NPN transistor, you should see &ldquo;OL&rdquo; (Over > >> Limit). If you are testing PNP transistor, the meter should show a > >> voltage drop between 0.45V and 0.9V. 4 May 2017 > > > >> None of the BC547's give the those readings, as I get 0.02V on a few of > >> what I have, and not 0.45V. > > > > You must put your meter in diode-test mode, (on the fluke 77 it looks > > like that's also continuity beeper mode) it should say OL with the leads > > unconnected and 0.00V with them toucheing eaco other. then do the above > > measurements. > > > >> Are mine no good and should I bin them. I have had them for a couple of > >> years or so now, and only used 1 of them. > > > > I'm guessing operator error, they should still be good after only a few > > years. > > > > > Putting the meter in diode-test mode,it reads OL when leads are > unconnected and 0.00v when touching each other. > Then connecting the positive to the Emitter and negative lead to the > Base the meter beeps, then reads 0.666, the same reading when the > positive is connected to the collector.
that means the tr is dropping 0.666v as each junction conducts. Black lead is +ve on diode test so you have an npn tr behaving normally. NT
Reply by RobH March 5, 20202020-03-05
On 05/03/2020 05:21, Jasen Betts wrote:
> On 2020-03-04, RobH <rob@despammer.com> wrote: >> I have some BC547 transistors which I want to use in a circuit, but >> according to this: >> >> Hook the positive lead from the multimeter to the to the EMITTER (E) of >> the transistor. Hook the negative meter lead to the BASE (B) of the >> transistor. For an good NPN transistor, you should see &ldquo;OL&rdquo; (Over >> Limit). If you are testing PNP transistor, the meter should show a >> voltage drop between 0.45V and 0.9V. 4 May 2017 > >> None of the BC547's give the those readings, as I get 0.02V on a few of >> what I have, and not 0.45V. > > You must put your meter in diode-test mode, (on the fluke 77 it looks > like that's also continuity beeper mode) it should say OL with the leads > unconnected and 0.00V with them toucheing eaco other. then do the above > measurements. > >> Are mine no good and should I bin them. I have had them for a couple of >> years or so now, and only used 1 of them. > > I'm guessing operator error, they should still be good after only a few > years. >
Putting the meter in diode-test mode,it reads OL when leads are unconnected and 0.00v when touching each other. Then connecting the positive to the Emitter and negative lead to the Base the meter beeps, then reads 0.666, the same reading when the positive is connected to the collector.