Reply by ~misfit~ October 5, 20192019-10-05
On 5/10/2019 6:12 AM, Robert Roland wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Sep 2019 00:19:07 +1300, ~misfit~ > <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote: > >> it won't run on NiMH cells and only uses alkalines down to 1.33v. > > You need a batteriser!
... like I need a hole in the head. ;) -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM" David Melville This is not an email and hasn't been checked for viruses by any half-arsed self-promoting software.
Reply by Robert Roland October 4, 20192019-10-04
On Mon, 30 Sep 2019 00:19:07 +1300, ~misfit~
<shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote:

>it won't run on NiMH cells and only uses alkalines down to 1.33v.
You need a batteriser! -- RoRo
Reply by whit3rd October 3, 20192019-10-03
On Sunday, September 29, 2019 at 7:07:22 PM UTC-7, ~misfit~ wrote:

> > On Mon, 30 Sep 2019 00:19:07 +1300, ~misfit~ > > <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> I have a combined wireless doorbell - inside/outside thermometer that I quite like. Unfortunately > >> it won't run on NiMH cells and only uses alkalines down to 1.33v.
> The sender uses two AAA cells and is very tightly packaged. Also it's waterproof as it's outside in > the elements so I don't want to mess with it too much.
It's bad design if it requires 1.33V; either bypass the battery terminals with a capacitor (that'll lower the impedance, if it's a logic-glitch that makes it malfunction) or consider using three cells in series (if it works on 3V, it should be OK for 4.5... maybe). A redesign of the circuit might be in order, except it's a consumer-grade package with cryptic labels and 'instructions'. Gluing it into a bigger waterproof box isn't too hard.
Reply by Jasen Betts October 1, 20192019-10-01
On 2019-10-01, ~misfit~ <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 30/09/2019 8:17 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
>> maybe you can find some device to run off the partly used batteries, >> a portable radio perhaps. > > Radio? I haven't used one of those in years! However you're right, I think I'll use them in a > flashlight or something that I *do* use. ;) Now I need to decide if buying a new flashlight (when I > have several perfectly fine 18650-powered flashlights) works out better than wasting alkaline cells. > > Cheers,
3 AAAs are smaller than an 18650 and the voltage is about right. you can get adaptors. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32973004084.html On the other hand the torch may work just fine off a single cell, I've got mostly AA/14500 torches here, they have some sort of buck/boost device. -- When I tried casting out nines I made a hash of it.
Reply by October 1, 20192019-10-01
SEPIC

WIKI has a page on it that isn't too bad. 
Reply by ~misfit~ September 30, 20192019-09-30
On 1/10/2019 3:08 PM, ~misfit~ wrote:
> On 1/10/2019 3:04 PM, ~misfit~ wrote: >> On 30/09/2019 8:17 PM, Jasen Betts wrote: >>> On 2019-09-29, ~misfit~ <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> ... that I can use to drain alkaline cells and push the 'charge' into either a lithium-Ion cell >>>> (for a flashlight), a phone or a powerbank. >>>> >>>> I have a combined wireless doorbell - inside/outside thermometer that I quite like. Unfortunately >>>> it won't run on NiMH cells and only uses alkalines down to 1.33v. (It's the only thing I have that >>>> doesn't run on rechargeable cells.) >>>> >>>> The sender uses AAA cells and the receiver uses AA cells and I buy good quality (expensive) cells >>>> to get the longest run-time between changes (as it's a PITA to re-pair them and re-set the >>>> clock in >>>> the receiver too often). I though of converting the receiver to run on a single 14500 Li-Ion cell >>>> (AA size) and a buck regulator or even a wall-wart but that still doesn't solve the issue of the >>>> sender. >>>> >>>> I dislike throwing good quality alkalines away when they still have ~65% of their capacity >>>> remaining but have had enough leak-disasters to not want to put already semi-discharged cells in >>>> remote controllers etc. where they then get forgotten about until things stop working. (I've never >>>> had an Eneloop leak and they run my remotes for about 3 years between charges.) >>>> >>>> So I'd like to make a gizmo that takes a single alkaline and pushes out ~5v through a USB cable >>>> for >>>> as long as the cell has juice, preferably at a reasonable current. I have a few different pre-made >>>> boost modules from the usual suspects but when I tested one the output voltage curve dropped with >>>> the input so that it wasn't very successful. >>> >>> these are cheap and will do it >>> https://aliexpress.com/item/32786144773.html >> >> I've actually already got some of those in my 'module collection'. > > My bad, just checked and I don't have those. I have some of these > <https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32450571426.html> and at first glance I thought they were the same > thing. I really need to 'index' my module collection.
I just ordered 5 of these <https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32830275320.html> They're cheap enough and claim a higher efficiency than the one you linked. If I don't use them for this 'project' they will likely be useful down the track sometime. I can put them in my collection. ;) -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM" David Melville This is not an email and hasn't been checked for viruses by any half-arsed self-promoting software.
Reply by ~misfit~ September 30, 20192019-09-30
On 1/10/2019 3:04 PM, ~misfit~ wrote:
> On 30/09/2019 8:17 PM, Jasen Betts wrote: >> On 2019-09-29, ~misfit~ <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote: >>> ... that I can use to drain alkaline cells and push the 'charge' into either a lithium-Ion cell >>> (for a flashlight), a phone or a powerbank. >>> >>> I have a combined wireless doorbell - inside/outside thermometer that I quite like. Unfortunately >>> it won't run on NiMH cells and only uses alkalines down to 1.33v. (It's the only thing I have that >>> doesn't run on rechargeable cells.) >>> >>> The sender uses AAA cells and the receiver uses AA cells and I buy good quality (expensive) cells >>> to get the longest run-time between changes (as it's a PITA to re-pair them and re-set the clock in >>> the receiver too often). I though of converting the receiver to run on a single 14500 Li-Ion cell >>> (AA size) and a buck regulator or even a wall-wart but that still doesn't solve the issue of the >>> sender. >>> >>> I dislike throwing good quality alkalines away when they still have ~65% of their capacity >>> remaining but have had enough leak-disasters to not want to put already semi-discharged cells in >>> remote controllers etc. where they then get forgotten about until things stop working. (I've never >>> had an Eneloop leak and they run my remotes for about 3 years between charges.) >>> >>> So I'd like to make a gizmo that takes a single alkaline and pushes out ~5v through a USB cable for >>> as long as the cell has juice, preferably at a reasonable current. I have a few different pre-made >>> boost modules from the usual suspects but when I tested one the output voltage curve dropped with >>> the input so that it wasn't very successful. >> >> these are cheap and will do it >> https://aliexpress.com/item/32786144773.html > > I've actually already got some of those in my 'module collection'.
My bad, just checked and I don't have those. I have some of these <https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32450571426.html> and at first glance I thought they were the same thing. I really need to 'index' my module collection. -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM" David Melville This is not an email and hasn't been checked for viruses by any half-arsed self-promoting software.
Reply by ~misfit~ September 30, 20192019-09-30
On 30/09/2019 8:17 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
> On 2019-09-29, ~misfit~ <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote: >> ... that I can use to drain alkaline cells and push the 'charge' into either a lithium-Ion cell >> (for a flashlight), a phone or a powerbank. >> >> I have a combined wireless doorbell - inside/outside thermometer that I quite like. Unfortunately >> it won't run on NiMH cells and only uses alkalines down to 1.33v. (It's the only thing I have that >> doesn't run on rechargeable cells.) >> >> The sender uses AAA cells and the receiver uses AA cells and I buy good quality (expensive) cells >> to get the longest run-time between changes (as it's a PITA to re-pair them and re-set the clock in >> the receiver too often). I though of converting the receiver to run on a single 14500 Li-Ion cell >> (AA size) and a buck regulator or even a wall-wart but that still doesn't solve the issue of the >> sender. >> >> I dislike throwing good quality alkalines away when they still have ~65% of their capacity >> remaining but have had enough leak-disasters to not want to put already semi-discharged cells in >> remote controllers etc. where they then get forgotten about until things stop working. (I've never >> had an Eneloop leak and they run my remotes for about 3 years between charges.) >> >> So I'd like to make a gizmo that takes a single alkaline and pushes out ~5v through a USB cable for >> as long as the cell has juice, preferably at a reasonable current. I have a few different pre-made >> boost modules from the usual suspects but when I tested one the output voltage curve dropped with >> the input so that it wasn't very successful. > > these are cheap and will do it > https://aliexpress.com/item/32786144773.html
I've actually already got some of those in my 'module collection'.
> how often do you need an unreliable portable USB charger? > the cost to run that thing will not be much less than the cost to run > a plug-in usb charger, but the hassle will be greater.
True.
>> If anyone has any ideas for something I can put together with a bit of veroboard or similar I'm all >> ears. I'm tired of having loads of half-used cells sitting around but don't want to just chuck them >> away. I've thought of this before but it's fresh in my mind as I've just bought a 32-pack of each >> size cell and they cost quite a chuck of change. > > It seems like a waste of time to use batteries, even free batteries, > where mains power is available.
Yeah, it's more the principle and not liking waste.
> can you run a wire to power the door button?
Not easily - and I rent so I don't want to go drilling holes in walls etc.
> maybe you can find some device to run off the partly used batteries, > a portable radio perhaps.
Radio? I haven't used one of those in years! However you're right, I think I'll use them in a flashlight or something that I *do* use. ;) Now I need to decide if buying a new flashlight (when I have several perfectly fine 18650-powered flashlights) works out better than wasting alkaline cells. Cheers, -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM" David Melville This is not an email and hasn't been checked for viruses by any half-arsed self-promoting software.
Reply by ~misfit~ September 30, 20192019-09-30
On 30/09/2019 8:39 PM, Charlie+ wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Sep 2019 15:07:18 +1300, ~misfit~ > <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote as underneath : > >> On 30/09/2019 7:38 AM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote: >>> On Mon, 30 Sep 2019 00:19:07 +1300, ~misfit~ >>> <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>>> ... that I can use to drain alkaline cells and push the 'charge' into either a lithium-Ion cell >>>> (for a flashlight), a phone or a powerbank. >>>> >>>> I have a combined wireless doorbell - inside/outside thermometer that I quite like. Unfortunately >>>> it won't run on NiMH cells and only uses alkalines down to 1.33v. (It's the only thing I have that >>>> doesn't run on rechargeable cells.) >>>> >>>> The sender uses AAA cells and the receiver uses AA cells and I buy good quality (expensive) cells >>>> to get the longest run-time between changes (as it's a PITA to re-pair them and re-set the clock in >>>> the receiver too often). I though of converting the receiver to run on a single 14500 Li-Ion cell >>>> (AA size) and a buck regulator or even a wall-wart but that still doesn't solve the issue of the >>>> sender. >>>> >>>> I dislike throwing good quality alkalines away when they still have ~65% of their capacity >>>> remaining but have had enough leak-disasters to not want to put already semi-discharged cells in >>>> remote controllers etc. where they then get forgotten about until things stop working. (I've never >>>> had an Eneloop leak and they run my remotes for about 3 years between charges.) >>>> >>>> So I'd like to make a gizmo that takes a single alkaline and pushes out ~5v through a USB cable for >>>> as long as the cell has juice, preferably at a reasonable current. I have a few different pre-made >>>> boost modules from the usual suspects but when I tested one the output voltage curve dropped with >>>> the input so that it wasn't very successful. >>>> >>>> If anyone has any ideas for something I can put together with a bit of veroboard or similar I'm all >>>> ears. I'm tired of having loads of half-used cells sitting around but don't want to just chuck them >>>> away. I've thought of this before but it's fresh in my mind as I've just bought a 32-pack of each >>>> size cell and they cost quite a chuck of change. >>>> >>>> TIA. >>> If there is room for two AA cells in the sender why not substitute a >>> lithium pouch cell and a regulator? Then you could charge the pouch >>> cell while in the sender and never worry again about pairing the >>> devices? >>> Eric >> >> The sender uses two AAA cells and is very tightly packaged. Also it's waterproof as it's outside in >> the elements so I don't want to mess with it too much. > > Trouble is that the boost circuit takes a proportion of the available > battery power to run, so trade off calculation required! > See: > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-1V-1-2V-1-5V-1-8V-2-5V-3V-to-DC-3-3V-Step-UP-Boost-Power-Supply-Converter/192311866315?hash=item2cc6ae33cb:g:ho0AAOSw-QZZwnWh
Yep. My plan probably isn't worth how much I'd 'save' by not mains-charging whatever I use this for. However I dislike waste, especially energy waste. I'm probably better to just get a flashlight that uses 2/4 AA/AAA cells and use them up that way. I remember over a decade ago I had a cell phone (not a smart phone) that had an alternate battery cover / adapter that took 3 x AA cells (and had a bulge in it that made the phone a bit bigger). It was designed more as an 'emergency solution' to not having a charged battery than a day-to-day option. Anything would be better than having a drawer half-full of 65% good AA / AAA cells... -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM" David Melville This is not an email and hasn't been checked for viruses by any half-arsed self-promoting software.
Reply by Charlie+ September 30, 20192019-09-30
On Mon, 30 Sep 2019 15:07:18 +1300, ~misfit~
<shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote as underneath :

>On 30/09/2019 7:38 AM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote: >> On Mon, 30 Sep 2019 00:19:07 +1300, ~misfit~ >> <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> ... that I can use to drain alkaline cells and push the 'charge' into either a lithium-Ion cell >>> (for a flashlight), a phone or a powerbank. >>> >>> I have a combined wireless doorbell - inside/outside thermometer that I quite like. Unfortunately >>> it won't run on NiMH cells and only uses alkalines down to 1.33v. (It's the only thing I have that >>> doesn't run on rechargeable cells.) >>> >>> The sender uses AAA cells and the receiver uses AA cells and I buy good quality (expensive) cells >>> to get the longest run-time between changes (as it's a PITA to re-pair them and re-set the clock in >>> the receiver too often). I though of converting the receiver to run on a single 14500 Li-Ion cell >>> (AA size) and a buck regulator or even a wall-wart but that still doesn't solve the issue of the >>> sender. >>> >>> I dislike throwing good quality alkalines away when they still have ~65% of their capacity >>> remaining but have had enough leak-disasters to not want to put already semi-discharged cells in >>> remote controllers etc. where they then get forgotten about until things stop working. (I've never >>> had an Eneloop leak and they run my remotes for about 3 years between charges.) >>> >>> So I'd like to make a gizmo that takes a single alkaline and pushes out ~5v through a USB cable for >>> as long as the cell has juice, preferably at a reasonable current. I have a few different pre-made >>> boost modules from the usual suspects but when I tested one the output voltage curve dropped with >>> the input so that it wasn't very successful. >>> >>> If anyone has any ideas for something I can put together with a bit of veroboard or similar I'm all >>> ears. I'm tired of having loads of half-used cells sitting around but don't want to just chuck them >>> away. I've thought of this before but it's fresh in my mind as I've just bought a 32-pack of each >>> size cell and they cost quite a chuck of change. >>> >>> TIA. >> If there is room for two AA cells in the sender why not substitute a >> lithium pouch cell and a regulator? Then you could charge the pouch >> cell while in the sender and never worry again about pairing the >> devices? >> Eric > >The sender uses two AAA cells and is very tightly packaged. Also it's waterproof as it's outside in >the elements so I don't want to mess with it too much.
Trouble is that the boost circuit takes a proportion of the available battery power to run, so trade off calculation required! See: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-1V-1-2V-1-5V-1-8V-2-5V-3V-to-DC-3-3V-Step-UP-Boost-Power-Supply-Converter/192311866315?hash=item2cc6ae33cb:g:ho0AAOSw-QZZwnWh